Start wherever is comfy, go up to a right hand dish and left hand inside the cave, then figure out how to transition onto the crimpy traverse to a tall but easy topout. Can sit as low as possible for an extra point but it doesn't add very much.

One beta (the original) involves putting your body in a position that you resemble a lowercase version of the greek letter lambda (λ)

Lambda

Unnamed V2

Bicycle Fairy

Sticky Rice

Asian Invasion

Left Hand Indian Man

Under the Moss

The Problem Tree

The Scoop

Dark Side of the Moon

Mostro Mantle

The Shark

Real Time

The Heffalump

Right Hand Indian Man

Santa Cruz Dude

Flow Juggler

Climb the obvious line up the arete. Find the jugs for the high top out. A harder variation comes in from the right side.

This is the left variation of Sticky Rice. Yabo start on the ledge at the very left of the boulder. Slap up left and traverse to the right top out. Thornburg says V3, but it might be closer to V2.

Starting as low as possible in the hole. Start off by making easy moves until the flakes run out. Then make the crux moves until you hit a large flat edge. Once you hit it, finish off the boulder with some easy moves. Avoid the jugs of sticky rice. The boulder is a little overhung. The fall is a little awkward due to the rock behind you, but it is safe. The top is a little mossy and inside the hole is a little dusty, but with some traffic I think this could clean up to be a great climb. I do not know if this has been climbed before, but if it has been and is named please tell me so I can fix it. Very unsure about the grade, please give input

Start on the right of the big flake. Move on top to the big jugs. From here you can dyno, do a big reach if you're tall, or use the crimpy side pulls. Dyno is probably the most fun and easiest.

V7 if you start on the lowest holds possible. First move is the crux (somewhat contrived but fun), slap up some slopers on the right and mantle at the top. Apparently the right hand start hold broke somewhat recently making this problem a bit harder. Stand start is V4.

Start down on the good rail. Move left then up the crack. Some good opportunities for knee bars.

One move wonder.  Start on bad right hand crimp, decent left hand crimp.  Throw left to a crimp, then out to the hueco.

youtu.be/f9ehdFALb6s

Sit Start, and go up using the good hols in the flake until you reach the edges at the top. Then do an odd top out by using the tree as a chimney

about 60 feet downhill from Indian Rock, head down the path and sniff around until you find the nook with this route and Right Hand Indian Man (V6).  These two problems face downhill, but are not super difficult to locate.

ID this problem by the 5 shallow dishes on the face making a triangle.  Start with a right hand in a dish and left on a sloper, slap up with the right to the obvious moss-free section of the topout

Stand start, climb the Arete + Flake. Then a high, insecure mantle.

Quality rock and one of the more striking, tall lines at Castle!

Best attempt at history:

Asked around a bit - If there is previous info on this or past ascents, seems like 90s or earlier and probably lost in time (Bruce M. said he thinks Barry Bates showed him it). Since no other details, giving it a name and suggesting the line as described for now (but also aware people have climbed tons of stuff down there over the years, and it’s somewhat obvious, so lmk or edit route details).

Recent history is Francesco Spadea scoped this, fixed the landing (nasty boulder(s) + ravine in fall zone), and cleaned. He shared it with me - I cleaned a little more and got the first new go on it. Ended up being great!

Start on a right facing sidepull with meager feet, and make a move to a flat edge. Then match or go big for the lip. If you know the actual name of this climb and the actual grade, please let me know so I can change it.

Sit start with low left hand on the best part of the lowest arete, right hand anywhere on the obvious runnel of holds on the right. Use some compression, possibly a heel or toe, possibly a shouldery move or two, possibly pasting an awkward high foot, and top out around left on better holds. Shimmy under the awkwardly low tree to top out.

I saw this route was cleaned and chalked, but has not been posted here. This is an early video of an ascent from back in 2009

youtu.be/RSpCZ-rh4KM?t=48

In the same nook as Dark Side of the Moon (see route description), sit start with a left hand in a juggy undercling and the right on a good hold at the arete.  Slap up low percentage holds on the arete to a good hold at the top, roll it over

Dyno from crimps. Might be harder for shorter climbers.

Start left hand in the tall scoop feature and right hand low in an obvious hold. Work your way up the right Arete and then left to go straight over the giant slopey top with a couple of small, interesting holds.

What looks like a small boulder turns into 7 or so pretty good moves on some unique features and the top out is a bit exciting/desperate.

Other info: I ran into this boulder randomly in early 2021 looking for another route. The face feature looked cool, so kept cleaning, removing loose rock, trying things, and eventually this seemed like the most logical line with the most obvious start holds.

After sending and sharing (thinking maybe a FA), I was told that this boulder was first cleaned and climbed by Barry Bates 15+ years ago but never named. As far as I know, at least he, Jeremy Meigs, and Justin Ridgely climbed a line on this boulder very similar to this (likely the same one but no pics/videos). Didn’t get any other details about the original send(s), but got the second hand “ok”, for what that’s worth, to reclaim this - happy to change info though as needed. Seems it hadn’t been climbed in 10+ years based on info I got - but that it was a good one that should be brought back.

Give it a try while it’s clean!

Description

Location

Routes in Lower Indian Rock