This problem starts on the right hand side with holds following up the indentation on the side near the back. 

  I haven't played around on this much, if you wanna write up some beta on it shoot me a message and I will post it along with where it came from.  

High Cholesterol

Cinnabun

Banana Split

Cardiac Arrest

Cardiac Arrest begins spanned out with a left hand on a low, glued sugar cube three-finger crimp block and right on a slopey ball near the bottom of the slight dihedral on the hiker's right side of the downhill face on the Small Fry Big Shake boulder. From that position, use a technical heel hook to move through a series of edges into the top of the dihedral before doing a small but committing backwards toss to the obvious blocky jug and follow more incut edges, jugs and a large foot ledge rightwards to the top of the boulder around the corner. This is a lower start to what is listed as High Cholesterol. An as-yet undone project (originally attempted (& glued?) by Eric Scully) starts on the same left hand start with the right hand on either a two-finger crimp pocket in a seam under the roof or on the crystal undercling used later as a heel hook would add one vicious (and very morpho) double digit span move out to the slopey ball, likely pushing the grade to somewhere around V13.

This is a pretty easy climb with a slightly harder start due to the lower section being slightly polished.

This would be a climb right up the center of the face starting from the small boulder.  This isn't the easiest climbing, I would say it's in the 5.6+ range, it isn't hard just a little thin at the bottom.

One of my issues with Lemmon is there aren't a ton of easy things for beginners, kids and people with a fear of heights that wanna get a feel for climbing.  When you climb 5.11s, 5.5 seems like walking up a flight of stairs but when you're new to climbing or a little kid a 65 foot 5.5 seems like a thousand feet of overhung crimpers.  It's also tough to give directions when you have to shout them from 50 feet away.  So instead of complaining and doing nothing this is the first of my solutions. 

  This is a 20+ foot slab, easy climbing (but still slab) and there are two fresh bolts I just put in on the top.  You will need a 24" sling to set up top rope as two draws won't do it.  I don't know if they will get used much and but they're out of sight and there if you want them. 

  This would also be an ideal spot for showing somebody how to clean anchors as you can safely sit right there and show them. 

Description

Protection

Routes in Small Fry Big Shake