Careful: The hill is kind of washed out under the arch and can make the fall kind of weirdStart on high crimps with a left foot on the top of the arch. Pull up to the corner, get you feet up and then move to the opposite top corner. Standard middle of the wall finish for Eden, grab the crack and swing out to the edge. Mantle top out if you feel like it

Tall Guy Problems

Lucky Slots

Battlement Blitz

Arch Classic

Right Up

Full Arch Traverse

The Arete

Sam's Traverse

The Flying Pig

Feels Like a Joke

Triple B

My Dirty Crack

Pocket 'n Lock it

East Arête

Battlement Lefty

Divot Direct

(Dyno) Heaven is a Second

Slots Traverse

Dante's Inferno

Gear and Beer

Battlement Right

Bauman's Problem

Optional V1 sit start on right crimp and left sloper.Start on two crimps about chest high, stand up to the obvious slot above and slightly left  of you. Right hand up into adjacent slot, then move into the compression hold. All of these basically top out the same, grab the crack under and then grab the edge. Top out if you want or just drop. 

Start on the left face of the battlemount and traverse right. Two-move crux as you transition from the left to the front face with a difficult fall-in left hand to a crimp. Good holds at the start and finish.

Work your way along the arch until holds no longer exist above the arch, then go up and over. Fun problem with one big, fun, shouldery move, but VERY slick, polished feet, which makes the problem very frustrating.  

  For a V4, follow the arch all the way to its end, using only holds on the arch. 

  NOTE: this problem was originally given 4 stars, however I have since then changed that. Its an OK problem, and although its a classic to the area, its a classic because of its obviousness as a boulder problem. 2 stars is much more suiting.

"This is the right dihedral formed between the main wall facing the road and the shorter, right white buttress (battlement). The wall height is low enough here to boulder if you are confident in pulling the top overhang." 

  Source: rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

  Pretty good, easy holds on this one. A few interesting pockets. The corner allows for easy toping out. Holds are often wet after rain in this location. Watch for loose rocks at the top (shown in photo).

A classic to the area, this climb was attempted so many times that the flat, slopey feet on the arch are now extremely slick, making the climb basically a campus with annoyingly slippery feet. Personally, I have not found the climb to be much fun at all, especially since you are essentially down-climbing the second half of the climb (I should mention this is the harder half).

Start as low as you can and work along the corner/arete of the concrete. Very self-explanatory, a bit harder than it looks.    NOTE: this is a four star because it is a classic that everyone climbs, it is a fun climb, but mainly its just something everyone seems to try at some point because of its obviousness.

Traverse Begins with hands on 2nd and 3rd blocks from turret. use blocks as the only handholds, either side pulling or just flat out gripping them. route ends with both feet on keystone. crux starts on the black rock, be careful coming off here and slipping your feet inside the arch 

This route finds itself situated between the "East Arete" and "Arch Classic" on the East Wall. Begin with a left hand side pull crimp and right hand in one of the brick seams to your right. Move up utilizing some tricky thumb beta in the broken corner of the brick above you. Gain better feet and move the hands up to the poor brick edges higher. Lead yourself to the last brick on the half arch and a good seam/crack between the second to last arch brick and third to last out right. Top out above the last arch brick. This route is climbed with out using the arete at all, so hands off.  Awesome problem! Only adding for others to enjoy this good climb. My friend and I just recently climbed the route and figured out all the beta for ourselves. We really enjoyed it! I just came up with a Cincinnati related name to share, but if this has been done before I am not aware of who did it or what it was called. I am not trying to steal any credit for this route so if you know of the original name and ascent please spray me down.

Start in the pocket on the left face of the tiny battlement, move to crack on the rectangle parts of the battlement, then do fun move to the lip. Worth doing but not worth telling your friends about.

Climb up along the rock right of the column and occasionally use the column for feet and hands. Good climb to take newer people on due to its grade.    Topout is harder than most of the climb, however it is possible due to the corner.

Be a bold boulder-er and top out this high(ish) ball out or set up a top-rope and send it. Fun top out, which is do-able without grabbing the fence at the top.   Work your way along crimpy holds with some decent jugs up to the rectangular sandstone at the top. Watch out for a LOT of dirt near the top, which is required to top this out (pictured in beta photo).

This is the best bouldering problem in the area (in my opinion). Lots of surprisingly diverse moves that are fairly difficult. 

  Start two hands on a side-pull crack on the very left side of the Column. Work your way around the column (without using the rectangular bricks at the top of the column) on matchy crimps. Crux is either matching on a small crimp on the front of the pillar or going up with left hand to a jug up top (when rounding to the right side of the column). Tricky beta. Top out

Highly balance-dependent slab problem that benefits from soft shoes and a good friction day. Similar difficulty to Bauman's Problem, but located on the right face of "the Arete". Arete is in.

Fun Climb along up the column using lots of side-pulls and deep cracks. Top out is possible. You will need to set up a top-rope on the fence at the top for this one to work.

"There are two, tall battlements/towers. Each battlement has three faces: left, front, and right. This line follows strictly the front face of this tower. It's lined with small, polished crimpers from bottom to top for sustained 5.12 climbing. Most of the locals bouler/free solo these lines - but setting up a toprope is easy and a good idea." 

  This route is hard, no doubt, but didn't quite feel like a 5.12a, so it will stay as an 11d unless someone disagrees. 

  Source: rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Start with hands as low as possible on the post in the picture, then dyno to the lip. Must be done in one move, without using crimps. 

Sit start from the same holds as Lucky Slots. Initial pull with a left hand to a grainy, in-cut hold then right hand finds a generous crimp. Reach up left to the very obvious slot then shuffle left, eventually matching on the indicated 1-2 finger crimpy hold, ending with a reach out with the left hand to catch the bottom edge of an indent, bordered by a clean, left-facing sidepull. Cross right to the two-finger pocket, then reach out left again to an in-cut crimp. Cross right again to a very generous in-cut crimp then go for the finish on the first wider concrete protrusion atop the spire. Pretty fun sequence compared to most of the other problems in the grade-range here.

Left dihedral formed by the wall and the tallet battlemont. Lower holds are fairly polished. It's not a spectacular climb, but it is one of the better known routes in the area. Use the wall for most of your holds, occasionally using the battlemont for foot holds. Top out it possible, but more difficult due to the overhang.

'Trad' may be pushing it here - but if you're looking for a place to practice placing 2 pieces of gear, 15 feet or less off the ground, this is the route for you! 

"The tallest battlement has three faces, the left, the middle and the right. Traditionally, its been said these climbs are roughly 5.10, 5.12, and 5.11, accordingly. The right most starts about chest high and moves straight up, utilizing crimps that get smaller the higher you get. Nail the dead point to the finger jug and keep it together for the top out. Should be top roped, but its often highballed by those who have it wired."   -keasbeynights22 (www.rockclimbing.com, 2010)

This problem is the left face of "The Arete", where you don't use the arete. Very balancey problem; it helps to attempt it when its cold, because it is very friction dependent.

NOTE This area is in development and would love it if you added your routes to it! If your climb here often, please drop a route on the page so that we can all find and try it.  

  This is the east wall that faces the road; its the first thing you see when you arrive in the parking lot. East-facing and has an arch in the middle of it. There are large, Limestone columns, known as a “battlement”. These are very slick and polished at the bottom.    The East wall has the best routes/problems of all of Eden Park. 

  The wall consists of a variety of problems and routes, you can set up a top rope wherever you would like on the wall, via the fence at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The East Wall