Connects Back in the Saddle Again with the ending move of From Dublin With Love.

Dublin Arete

Jumanji

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades

Traffic Sucks

Siege

Thriller

The Swindler

Ghost Ethics

Manhunt in Space

The Road to Zion

From Dublin With Love

Song of the Iron Horse

The Prism

If I Only Had a Brain

Assault on the Control Room

Jaguarundi

Stellar Cellar

Sage

Back In the Saddle

Sacred Space

Inward Flight

The Corridor

Right next to the ending ledge of Stellar Cellar. SDS the rising lip problem from right to left on The Prism.  Right hand on a good sloper-ish hold, left hand pocket for the start. Sustained. Power over technique cause the feet are mud chips essentially. Will clean up nicely. Good heel hooking for short people. Rad little warmup.

Alex and I cleaned up what seemed like tons of thick broken glass. There is still

broken glass everywhere

which is a good reason for pads, some shards were huge and buried under soft dirt.

Start low in a fist crack and stay in the crack till you can grab the top out jug.

Stand start and head up the face on bombers and a few slopers.

Start with your left hand on the left arete, right hand palm down, and a high left foot. The skirt underneath is off. Use technical sequences to head right into the start of Sage and finish that problem straight up.

Crouch start on good holds on the left arete. Make a long reach right. A jug awaits high on the right side of the lip but how do you get there?  Easier if you're tall but no less scary. Committing and incredible. Alex got a pretty big face full of heel when Michael fell on the crux.

Video started after the first few moves, sorry for not saying anything Kyle. Thanks for the awesome vid.

youtube.com/watch?v=W75sK3p…

SDS matched on the huge sloper rail system and work your way on crimps to the face of the boulder. Finish up onto the slab

Start left hand in the massive hueco with a bomber kneebar, right hand in small pocket to the right of hueco. Bring one or both hands to the sloper lip and release the kneebar. Bump to jugs and top out direct.

SDS with two finger locks, pull in around a little edge and keep on finger Jammin till you run out of crack.

SDS on overhang with left hand on the lowest part of the rail and right hand on two finger crimp really low. Move along the rail till you mantle out of the cave and finish up slab

Hi-ball! SDS on the right under the roof. Match on the slopers and travel left to a glory jug on the lip.The lip above the slopers is off for hands. Mantle the boxy face on it's left side.  The move to the jug from the slopers is so satisfying.

Other Info:

I found this area in the summer of 2016 while running along game trails. I made it to about this boulder before totally getting lost in runners' high and staring at it for a while. I knew I had to come back with Alex, Kyle, Michael, and anyone else who was up for the adventure of clearing out the shattered glass and poison oak.

The backside of the Prism boulder has many great holds and features. See photos for basics but overall just have fun!

So far only one established route on this boulder. The downhill face and pretty much the entire top is super loose and

pulling big blocks off of this is a bad idea

- the slope wants to send your choss trundling into the freeway. Scary to imagine cannonballing a car. Be gentle.

SDS under the small roof at a low left undercling and a right at the pocket above the roof. Mantle the left side of the roof then pull the bulge to top out slightly left. The arete and everything right of it is off but mainly it's still very loose and shouldn't be used yet.

Gently

downclimb next to the rock pile, there is a ledge that leads to a pretty solid boulder that you can hop off.

Start on the jugs to the right of jagurundi, mantle and balance along the ramp heading left to the good pinch, go up to the left leaning jug and mantle.

An equally adventurous though less committing variation by Alex has you pulling the starting mantle and then stepping up and right to a high feeling but secure finish to the right of a small bush.

Start on bomber pockets under the cave section of the rock. Work up using okay hands and good feet till you can mantle out of the cave part (physical crux) and take the face of the climb head on. Mantle up to tall pinch then work feet up and look for slopey horn slightly left at the very top of the boulder (mental crux) Top is prolly V2 just scary.

The bottom skirt of rock is ON for this one.

A lip traverse along an overhang. SDS on the right side and move along the lip, around the corner, to end at a horn/ledge an arms throw across the crack. Step off from here. There are proving to be quite a few ways to move along the lip using the

sharp

holds, all variations are hovering around V0/1. Trying to top out looks like a bad idea. Earned it's name for being an excellent place to keep water and tools overnight instead of repeatedly hauling them out to the boulders every day.

Start crouched with your left hand on a small sidepull, right on a good open hand hold, and a good foot. Use holds along the arete to head straight up to a crux mantle.

The face next to The Stellar Cellar. SDS on the "saddle" rock and move through slopey holds to an attention getting top out

Start doubled up on same super jug for AOTCR (V2) but traverse low and left along the cave’s lip to get back into Jaguarundi and top out. Lots of compression and heel hook trickery on this one.

The bottom skirt of rock under the cave is OFF

Head straight up the pockets on the slightly overhanging face.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Irish Boulders