Route starts just above the top of 'When We Can' at "Bond Street". Starts with a sweet hand crack, leading to a roof and an overhanging wall above. The overhanging face of the perched boulder above is protected by two bolts.  Chain Anchors are located at the lip

If Only We Could (Project 5.12?)

Brutal Truth

Frigidaire

Yes You Can

Maybe (Project 5.12?)

Double Shot

Calcite Cringe

The Bats Cave

Sting Like A Bee

Sidekick

Tour Bus

Bad Mamajama

Willie's First Ride

Rocky Road

Tiger Moth

If You Can (Project C1+/5.13-?)

This is My Jam

Bleed

Pins and Needles

When We Can

Butterfly Buddies

Sacred Ground

The Razors Edge

Exile

Beyond the Embrace

Megalodon

Thin fingers/tips up a left facing dihedral to a roof. Feet are the crux, find pods for fatter fingers!

Start by climbing up a short easy section of fingers and hands which quickly opens up to a wide offwidth. Now get in there and start groveling, milking what face holds you can to a small roof which you climb around to the right. Above lies yet, more offwidth until you can exit on small face holds which lead to a nice belay ledge. Its recommended to belay here unless you want to take doubles in 4",5", and 6" cams. The belay takes 3" to 4" gear. 100ft.

Pitch two climbs up more offwidth utilizing a whole new series of choice words to a big sandy ledge where you can build another anchor. The anchor takes 5" gear and some smaller finger to off hand size pieces. Its kinda janky up there, so saving that #5 for the anchor is recommended. 50ft.

A short scramble leads to the top.

Large corner crack. Climbs to same anchors as this my jam. Cold air flows out of the base of this crack. Great refrigerator in the summertime!

Approximately 40' left of "Bad Mamajama'.  The leftmost of two parallel cracks leading to a roof.  Anchors below the roof.  Climb a short hand crack through a wide pod to the chains above.  Short but sweet!  Crux is the last 10 feet.

Thin face climbing above a crenulated protuberance. Two distinct cruxes, both involving balancy feet with thin gastons.

Fun chimney and offwidth climb with many face options. Pitches can easily be linked if you have the gear for it.

P1: Climb the chimney and go left at the death block (don't worry its solid). Continue through a bulge with glorious face holds and then either build an anchor or traverse right to a nearby bolted anchor.

P2. Go up the slightly overhanging offwidth section with a couple mandatory offwidth moves, great exposure! Continue to the bolted anchor above.

Rappel down and right to the aforementioned bolted anchor midway up the wall.

Start up a wide chimney which makes you start to wonder what you got yourself into. Then traverse around a corner to the left and begin climbing easier terrain with some gnarly jams up a very steep to overhanging wall. More offwidth brings you to some ass puckering exposure and stemming through a bulge to the top. A two bolt anchor awaits at the top. Two 60m ropes are required to rappel to the ground.

Climb the chimney to the small exit portal above.  No protection exists for this route.  To descend, down climb the chimney.  If you are lucky, you may spot a bat or two in the back end of the cave.  If you wish to find a way to the top side of the crag, this is an easy way up.  A short 4th class scramble exists above the chimney before the hiking commences.

Stellar route, 60' of 5.11- climbing up a steep to overhanging face using liebacks and face holds. 60' up you get a bomber jug but very little rest then comes the 20 feet of hard overhanging face climbing. 3 back to back cruxes up the overhang to mussey hooks

Jugs leads to a few arete moves back to the face allows you to clip the chains. Uncharacteristic holds for the Mills. Crux near the top. First bolt is a spinner, which will be fixed soon, but shouldn't deter you from climbing this route. Would be a classic if it was 80 feet.

The obvious splitter crack with a big roof a third of the way up. The route was initially climbed by Chad Suchoski who aided the roof section. Alex Voboril and Chris Herle later cleaned large amounts of loose shale and greenery from the lower section and added a few bolts to make it a well protected lead. Chris was the first to free the route in it's entirety.

Pitch 1: Clip a bolt from the tree, and then pull a few moves to get established before clipping another bolt that protects a strenuous move through the section of smooth rock above (falling here is safe, but would get you well acquainted with the tree). Follow the lieback crack to the roof, traverse left, clip a bolt in the roof (extend to prevent rope drag) and then fight your way through the roof on good hand jams. Continue to the anchor. 11b.

Pitch 2: Follow the sustained crack, using a variety of crack techniques. Finish on a nice ledge with bolts/rap rings. 10d.

Descent: Need a 70m to rappel the route. In order to reach the the pitch 1 anchor you must kick off of the rock on the way down or you'll be left hanging in space (not good). Another option would be to walk to the left side of the crag and rappel another route.

Climb the left corner crack over a couple of bulges to the anchors above.

90ft of stellar, vertical to slightly overhanging face and arete climbing. High endurance route with small holds and multiple technical cruxes.

Head up the slabby groove towards big features moving through 2-3 bluges/steep sections. Crux is towards the top on kind of awkward off balancing moves, transitioning onto the large side pull jugs. Harder than it looks.

95 feet of beautiful face and arete climbing. First set of anchors are just after cruxy section about 50' up. The second anchors go all the way up 13 bolts to the top! Perfect lead for those working this grade. Tightly bolted fun!

Move up a wide crack to a 15' horizontal roof about 15' off the deck.  Crest the lip and climb the fractured crack system to the chain anchors above.

Climb the sustained finger crack to the chains above.  The finger locks on this climb are stellar.  There is one dirty section where some rock was removed; in this section the face holds are excellent.

Start in a short thin seam to a small blocky area with a decent rest. Now pay penance to the cryptic onslaught above in a vertical dance of masochistic stratagem, clinging to hope, inch by inch, struggling upward, learning what it means to bleed!

Pitch 2 is a 5.10 crack which takes gear to 3"

Climb the crack and face features up to the clean finger crack system and move to the anchors above. A must climb!

Great mill crack! medium to large crack with big liebacks and face holds.

Excellent route, quality crux section from bolts 3-5.

Climb the left side of the face to a slab/crack above, move left under the small roof, then climb the knife edge arête to the anchors above.

Start by climbing up a vertical seam which switches from right facing to left facing about 30ft up. Climb this vertical seam past a short broken section to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge to the right until you reach the edge of a large gully. Instead of heading into the gully, climb up a short face section to a 3" crack in a bulge. After the bulge, follow a splitter .75" to 1" crack which heads up a very exposed steep ramp to the anchors.

Start by climbing a thin splitter crack and gain a foothold on the more featured face above. Work your way up making a short traverse left across the face passing a bolt and gain the vertical crack above. Follow the crack to a two bolt anchor above. 90ft.

Pitch 2 follows a crack through a short wide section and up under a roof. Clip a bolt and exit the roof directly to a wildly exposed face which has a splitter crack and swallows gear. A two bolt anchor with rap rings awaits above.

Climb the hand crack using occasional face holds. The crack becomes off width about 30' up. Use the main crack and the smaller one to your right.  At 50' you will arrive at a set of anchors. You can stop here (5.9) or continue another 65' through multiple flaring offwidth roofs (5.10c)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Mill