Start in an easy crack to the beginning of the arete. Surmount a small headwall and follow the edge to a belay ledge. Lower off.

A second pitch has been started following the dihedral about 100' with gear and bolts up to a hanging slab. It will go to the left here a bit to a roof and tackle the slab above. Looks awesome but don't know how clean it is. Open project!

Metal Arete

Meddle

Middle

Meddle is named after the Pink Floyd album in honor of it's longest song "ECHOS". Coined for the Manta Buttress's location on "The Wall of Echoes". As of this posting, it may be the longest route on this formation. The rock quality is incredible, but as always in this area be mindful of rock fall. The first three pitches are 180'-200' each...Rope drag can be an issue if protection isn't sufficiently extended. Pitch 1 : Follow the crack system up as it trends slightly right until they diminish. Traverse left across a face and mantle the first belay ledge.

Pitch 2: Start right from the ledge and continue slightly left to a weakness that goes under a roof ledge. Pull the right side of the roof to another comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch 3: Continue up through the weakness to some easy climbing. Belay at the base of the summit block below a huge tree.

Pitch 4: Easy climbing to a worthwhile summit view!

Start just to the left of Meddle in the crack system angling left and splitting the blank face. Really great finger jams throughout but the crack ends near the top with a 20' runout to the anchor. (5.7)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Manta Buttress