This is a well protected climb and easily done in one pitch.

Climb up the middle of the wall, clipping some bolts along the way. Set up a belay at a bolted anchor or continue climbing up, moving slightly right and closer to the arete, clipping a few more bolts, to the top of the route.

[Redacted]

Flying Camel

Nosedive

Seven Draws

Boot Laeger

unknown

Anxiety Attack

Mostly Harmless

Stiff Upper Lip

Vaino’s Route

Trust your rubber on this one!

Follow the bolts up the low angle slab. The crux is getting to the high first bolt and involves thin edging and smearing on very polished rock.

Climb a crack that takes good pro, then face climb past 4 well-spaced bolts to the top of the wall. Overall, a great climb with varied climbing and a well-protected crux.

A great, sustained climb with a demanding crux and technical face climbing on thin edges. Climb up the steep broken crack to a V-slot (crux) and then continue up the face performing delicate moves on thin but positive edges. Overall, a well-protected route that takes good gear before reaching the first bolt.

A fun, bolt-protected climb on mostly good rock. Follow the arete to bolted rappel anchors.

From the bolted anchors of Seven Draws, traverse left and then follow the bolted line up to the top of the wall. Consider extending or back-cleaning the first bolt to reduce rope drag.

Superb climb with mix of different climbing styles. start on the slab after tunneling through bushes/trees to get to the base. clip some bolts, pulling a 9+/10a move that might be semi-dynamic, then 5.9- up cracks, blocks, bulges, and seams to the top.

This is a new route not mentioned in the guide-pamphlet topo.

Another great route at New Directions. Although the crux comes high up towards the end of the climb, both pitches offer quality climbing on good rock.

P1. Climb up the crack system all the way to a small alcove under a roof. Bolted anchor.

P2. Continue following the crack/corner until reaching a face protected by bolts. Follow the bolts to the top of the wall.

To descend, use the bolted anchors at the top of Boot Laeger. Two rappels with a 70m rope will get you safe to the ground.

Steep and sporty. Follow the line of bolts as it diagonals up and right the exposed arete.

Outstanding!

Hard slab right off the ground followed by a seam that will test you crack climbing skills. Technical and sustained

There is a significant runout near the top of the route that can be avoided by placing a small finger sized cam.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rusty Nail Area