Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.  

  Thoughtful moves in a variety of different rock situations.    . (though this route goes into a chimney, no real "chimneying" moves are needed). 

  Up left-side face of stacked blocks. Next a bit left up to wide chimney. Up chimney (left inside wall) 10-15 ft almost to its top. Then exit from chimney with big step across gap onto face to right of chimney. Up to wide Left-facing corner/gully. A bit below its top, exit Left and up. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Mother Night

Prologue

The Hidden Staircase

Starship Troopers

Where the Wild Things Are

Good Soldier Schweik

Second Foundation

Northwest Passage

Riders of the Purple Sage

The Odyssey

Basilisk

Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.  

  Variety of thoughtful moves in a variety of different rock structures: overhanging and slab. 

  Up the lowest face to 2ft-deep roof, and over the R side of roof (a bit awkward) - (easier if go farther right along roof?) - (crack to L is not interesting). Next up to alcove / pod at bottom of chimney. 

  . . variation Between Planets - exciting + thoughtful 5.10d: Up the overhanging prong to its top (on L side of obvious wide chimney).   . . . (for more at this difficulty, try the crux sequence of Good Shoulder Schweik). 

  Next over R side of overhang which forms the top of the alcove. Then up to base of R-facing corner/gully. Step up left onto face and up that to top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Starts on the right wall in the cave with a boulder start.  Move hands up to the right and throw a heal hook.  Work out to pull up to block on top of the outcrop.  Then move left onto face and through the climber sized opening with a strong mantle to find a hold higher on the face.

Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.  

  More interesting than it looks. 

  Grab two side-pulls and haul up onto the obvious ramp.   . . Variation easier start: Walk on ledge and ground eight to the end of the dark ledge and the bottom of the ramp.  

  Diagonal Left up ramp to its end, with perhaps some moves above the ramp. Next step Left, then finish up face which is to the Right of big R-facing corner. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Decent holds, but dirty + vegetated as of 2016. Perhaps could be a beginner warmup if it were cleaned. Mainly used (only in dry conditions) as shortcut to access top of this sector rock.   Dangerously slippery when wet or snow/ice or fresh autumn leaves. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting tricky crux sequence with abrasive handholds. Too bad the holds are not friendlier, or the difficulty more sustained. For more at this difficulty nearby try the "Between Planets" variation of Starship Troopers. 

  Up the slab, then through overhang into the open book (crux) up to a wide ledge. Step left up onto big perched block (also worthwhile is to finish on Starship Troopers). Next step Right across onto face with some thoughtful moves to the top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Loose rocks small and big (including a known big loose one a bit more then halfway up lying flat on a ledge), slippery lichen and moss on rock surfaces. Not ready for "prime time". Only for parties with a desire and knowledge to safely detect and remove loose rock and clean rock surface.  

  Variety of thoughtful moves. 

  Start up Left side of arete under protruding roof section. Hand-traverse across and up to face on R side of arete. Up face to below 6-8ft-wide prow. Step right under prow and finish up arete which forms right edge of prow face. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting rock situation at its difficulty level, but more often used to access Top Rope anchors. 

  Up the slab under the dark overhang, then turn left to the top.  

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Interesting moves. 

  Diagonal up right on rock just above ground for about eight feet to below perched 2.5-ft-wide block. Directly up over the perched block, next up small R-facing corner. A bit left up to big R-facing corner, and up that to top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Lots of thoughtful moves with unusual rock structures. Even more if add Variation 1 from the same TR anchor. 

  Start in the alcove near R end of ledge.    . . Variation 1 also interesting, same difficulty: Start up the arete which is out to left. 

  Diagonal up left along ramp to reach left end of roof as above.    . . Variation 2: The featureless face below left from the ramp. (5.9+) 

  Straight up past roof into L-facing corner and up that a bit. Then big step Right around corner (crux) into face, up that to top.   . . Variation 3 easier: Continue up in L-facing corner to top. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Lots of fun + thoughtful moves much on big holds. Even more if add Variation 1 from same (or nearby) top anchor (but need protection against dangerous side-swing if climber falls on that) 

  Up the chimney over the chockstones and/or big moves on good holds on the steep wall on the side of the chimney. 

  . . Variation 1 fun interesting: Start left in the big deep alcove, up a little, then hand-traverse R into chimney. (5.7+) (need protection directional) 

  Up the corner and crack. Finish straight over roof. 

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree). 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Variety of rock structures both overhanging and slab, including roofs.   Routes 50-80 ft tall. Faces mainly SSW. 

Top Rope access: One way is to go around left by scrambling up steep through cleft (lat long approx N41.1465 W74.1673) to reach top of cliffs. Then walk horizontal about 90 ft right then down (SE).   Dangerously slippery when wet or snow/ice or fresh autumn leaves. Hiking poles and/or Micro-spikes recommended. 

  Another way might be to climb the route Northwest Passage

  around the right side of this rock. 

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber. 

  . . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Adventure Stories