Jugtacular is the name given to this problem by Paul Humphrey and it definitely describes this climb well! Jugtacular starts just around the corner and to the right of the Black Wall Arete. Start low, just to the left of a blocky ledge, and start pulling. Pocketed, interesting jugs(there is a sloper or two as well) will take you straight up through the bulging roof. As you hit the lip, let your feet cut loose and heel hook to more great holds above. This is a tall and exposed line that rages from 20-30 feet depending on sand conditions.

Jugtacular

Rodney King

Nerve Therapy

Shark Fin Arete

Juguysko Jam

Sand Dolla

The Boot Traverse

Black Wall Arete

Northface of The Boot

Nerve Counseling

Juguysko Traverse

The Black Wall is the farthest south of the tall, steep walls at Houda South. The Arete problem climbs just left of the prominent right arete of this striking wall. There is often a small stream flowing along the base that you step across to pull onto the rock. Depending on where the stream is flowing, you can start directly on the arete or slightly left for a more challenging problem. This is a highball problem but the holds are big and positive up top.

Good warmup with a highball top out. Cool little shelf to get on top of right before the top out.

Pretty decent warm up problem along with warming up to working highball problems as well as learning to gauge chossiness of rock. Starts between the Arete on the left and the crack to the right, same start as Nerve Counseling, but then continues to follow the arete to the left for a more exposed overhang. Facing the problem, you should be facing north. Rated for amount of Choss. Be Careful.

The Shark Fin is a slightly overhanging, juggy arete on a wild free-standing pillar. Climb the arete using the edge and jugs just left. Low tide is a must.

Fun problem as long as the sand is low enough. Crawl up and along the top for a V3 problem. Stay super low for V5 problem. Make your way across the face for a V4 problem.

If the sand is low enough sit start under the ledge and try to miss the boulder by your ass. Crux down low, settles down for the top out.  Stemming, good edges and some toehook beta for the sàvvy. Be careful of choss up top. Finish slow and check holds. I cleaned some off but I'm sure there is more.

A traverse on positive, large holds that starts from the west end of the rock. Start on either the south or north side for a little variety. Fun to lap as a finish to your day. Also, a good one for new climbers.

Yard out the big jugs of several variations on the overhanging north face of the "Boot". High enough to get you mentally warmed up for the taller problems to the south, but super positive holds.

Pretty decent warm up problem along with warming up to working highball problems as well as learning to gauge chossiness of rock. Starts between the Arete on the left and the crack to the right and goes straight up a slight overhang to a vertical topout about 15 feet up. Facing the problem you should be facing north. Rated for amount of Choss. Be Careful.

Nice traverse starting right and ending left. Only accessible earlier in the season when sand levels are low. Crux is the transition from the mid section to the final section of the traverse. Final section (Juguysko Jam) can be finished in one of three ways and is its own problem when the sand levels are higher. Stay low for a V5 finish, cut across the middle for a V4 finish, or go high and finish the traverse along the top for a continued V3 finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Houda South