This route is a must do!  It was the first and probably the best route done on the wall, though all three are good.  Start from a small shelf and move up to the high first bolt.  From here follow the bolt line past fantastic holds to the low angled and slabby finish.  The end can be protected with a few small cams.  Lower from the 2 bolt anchor in the large overhang boulder.

Enter Slabman

Un-named

Slippery When Wet

Left route.  Climb the short crack to a thin face protected by 2 bolts.  Move up and left a good ways to 3rd bolt.  Climb past 2 more bolts to gear protected climbing.   Note: sling the first gear above the 5th bolt long before moving up and right to the anchor.  Finish up and right on gear protected terrain to the anchor.  With a 70 meter rope it is possible to lower.  With a 60 meter rope, belay at anchor then rap off.

This route is a heck of a lotta fun if it's dry.  Chimney up the cave/block to the main wall and step out to the bolt.  Continue up on fantastic edges and good gear, generally staying slightly right of the water streak.  The crux is up high at a slabby bulge (imagine that!).  If it's wet it will feel hard and intimidating.  There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the water streak.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Un-named wall - - Right of Desperado (middle wall)