Wow! Those xenoliths are sharp!! "Let It Bleed" will draw blood, if you're not careful.

This route and the others on the Waco Wall are vastly different then the other routes at Texas Canyon. Nowhere else at Texas Canyon do you find tiny inclusions and xenoliths this solid, "sticky," and sharp. Very reminiscent of gritstone that way. Use the incut holds left of the 1st bolt to get established on the wall and work up the sloping footholds to a right slanting sidepull and a hard pull to a three-finger pocket. Work through the pocket and stand in the pocket to clip the 3rd bolt. Continue up the face on amazingly sharp and solid xenoliths to the anchor. You'll definitely feel the burn in your fingertips on "Let It Bleed." While it might feel contrived to avoid grabbing the rounded arete, trust the friction and gun for the three-finger pocket.

Let It Bleed

Rhinestone Cowboy

This  Ain't My First Rodeo

Fricken Chicken

Texas Hold 'Em (aka 5.7 D)

Begin by pulling a bouldery move on sloping holds and xenoliths to a stance below the 1st bolt. Undercling the flake and move right to a high horizontal edge. From the edge move back left and up on fiction and small holds to a large pocket and the anchor.

"This Ain't My First Rodeo" follows a right leaning weakness. Climb the face on positive edges to a jug. Fight the barndoor to reach shallow sloping holds above an overlap. Continue up the steep face on thin slopers and edges.

Climb the face to a good pocket and the 1st bolt. Continue over the overlap/bulge on small side pulls and incuts. Pull the final face on edges and side pulls to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Waco Wall