Pull onto a couple of jugs to reach a Ledge and your first bolt. Continue through a little overhanging bulge with a spectacular undercling that is obvious from the ground. Follow a series of Legends to the chain anchor that hangs two-thirds of the way up the cliff.

Baby steps

Crimptastic Ride

Slippery slope

The Good Book

Lazy Days

Wet Finish

Scale It

Dragon's Teeth

Monarchy

Alderdash

No Floss Necessary

Dragons Teeth

The Little Waterfall That Could

Hallowed Ground

Left At Albuquerque

Mosquito Mission

Nibblen' No-see-ums

Shits and Giggles

Jungle Boogie

Overarching Anchors

Columbine Arete

Hammer Time

Short and Sweet

Sail Cat

Better Call Thal

Gunsight Gap

Trim the Bush

Sweet and Sour

Sling That Horn

This one move Wonder still offers some good climbing. Start on The Hourglass shaped hold located at head height and continued up Ledges with one Crux move that will bring you two more moderate climbing. Follow the jugs at the top to reach a interesting and sometimes intimidating anchor.

If you have fingers of steal this is the route for you. Climb onto the left trending ramp with a good side pull to clip the first bolt 8 feet off the ground. Then fight straight up and slightly left on crimp after crimp on a thin slightly overhanging face. Once you reach the halfway mark there is a nice ledge to rest and shake out on then continue up easier climbing on fun rock past a final small roof section and on to the anchor.

Start on the ledges 6 feet left of the small dihedral that leads to a small roof. Follow the bolt line up a steep series of cramps on the face before reaching a Ledge. Fight your way through an awkward Crux and pull a series of small roof blocks that will give you access to the chains at the top of the cliff. There may not be slopers on this route yet there was a lot of trundling to reveal solid rock underneath and thus earning the name Slippery Slope.

This route starts where the approach Trail meets the cliff. Follow a crack onto a ledge and scramble up easy terrain to get to the technical dihedral Crux. After pulling the roof continue up and left to a 2 bolt anchor.

This was the first route put up on the cliff and takes the best line up the center of the face.  The original route starts on the rusty bolt that is also used for Trim The Bush.  An alternate start is the more direct clip to the left.  Follow good holds and low angle climbing to the vertical, steep finish.  If the route is going to be top roped, bring webbing for the anchor to reduce rope drag.  It is best to rap the route rather than lowering to save wear and tear on your gear.

This is the second climb from the right at the second wall.  Start in a corner and clip up and right to the top of the open book.  Climb straight up the face and finish with crux moves over a bulge and to the chain anchor.

Climb up juggy holds passed a right trending ramp to reach the first bolt 12 feet off the deck. Pull through a bulge using the sweet side pull and continue up crimps through the middle crux section. Shake out at the ledge on the top of the gigantic flake before continuing on to the final short crux moves just below the anchor.

This is the left climb at the second wall.  It starts up enjoyable face climbing before getting vertical on a huge flake (Dragon's Teeth).  Exit the flake onto a ledge and make a crux reach, then its on to the anchor. 

This is the right of two routes located in between the two main crags of the Campground area. Climb tricky and fun moves up and right clipping your way to a two bolt anchor. Fa Mike Webber

 After extensive trundling and Moss scrubbing a route extension was developed over the summer of 2018 that now brings this climb to the top of the cliff. Follow three additional bolts up fun face climbing beyond the ledge system that used to mark the top of the climb.

 Route extension: Nick Weicht, Zach Sheldon

This route starts low on the wall at a left trending ramp. Climb up onto jug and clip the first bolt then traverse left on steep face moves to add a couple extra feet to the Climb. From here break straight up on a seam to gain casual climbing up mellow and enjoyable cracks and faces on to the anchor.

This is the far right climb on the second wall.  The crux is getting off the ground. Once you crack this boulder problem, the rest is a bit less crimpy, yet try and not barndoor off.  This climb has a great last move to the anchor :)

Start up an easy slab that steepens into a layback flake (the dragons teeth) . Leave the flake for some fun climbing on jugs with a reachy crux near the top. This would be a good beginner climb/lead.

The little waterfall that could climbs a chimney on to a slab that used to separate the upper and middle wall with vegetation before Industrial Landscaping linked the two features together. This is the easiest route in the campground area. Use an assortment of cams and nuts to protect the route and Ascend up to a 2 bolt chain anchor just below the brush line at the top of the cliff.

This route starts on the white colored rock and clips a first bolt 8 feet off the ground. Continue past the right trending ramp into a set of amazing under clings. Pull onto the large flake for the crux sequence before gaining a ledge to rest on and continuing up mellower holds on to the anchor.

This route climbs up the wavy features. Start on a ledge to reach the first bolt off of jugs 10 feet up the wall. Then pull crux moves off of crimps to gain a nice ledge to rest on. From here continue on huge holds to a final roof crux move that will bring you to the anchor.

Start up the far right corner of the first wall at Campground Crags.  The first bolt is high and to the right.  After an awkward start, move onto the arete, and continue straight up the rap bolts.  Bring webbing in order to TR this route.

Start on an overhanging bulge, and pull onto a crimpy, vertical, technical section.  Continue up an enjoyable upper half of the route, and go to the anchor.

This route shares an anchor with another short climb to its immediate right. They are both located between the two main walls at the Campground Crag. Climb into a small dihedral and through a short roof. Continue straight up to the anchor. Fa Mike Webber.

 After extensive trundling and Moss scrubbing a route extension was developed over the summer of 2018 that now brings this climb to the top of the cliff. Follow three additional bolts up fun face climbing beyond the ledge system that used to mark the top of the climb.

 Route extension: Nick Weicht, Eric Christensen

This is the leftmost climb on the first wall.  The route follows a bolt line up a right-angling ledge and climbs the face up fun upper moves to the anchor.  This route is one of the newer ones in the area and was a lot of dirt on the face, but it now cleaning up a little more with each use.

Climb the righr edge of the cliff staying just in from the forest and Shrubbery. Continue past two small Ledges before reaching a crux bulge. Onward and upward trending left under the overhanging roof before pulling another steep move and scrambling to the two bolt anchor.

This great little route is a gem for the area.  It is one of the more sustained lines around.  Easy climbing past a couple of bolts leads to the first crux.  Hard crimping or a dyno leads to a mini-jug.  From the jug, do some intersting slab moves with little in the way of feet.  Once you mantle up the slab, pull a rooflet on dirty rock to the anchor.

Start where the approach Trail meets the Crag and pull a small Boulder problem to get on top of a large ramp. Continue on easy holds to a ledge system underneath the Crux. From here you will have to pull hard on overhanging moves for a fun, tricky sequence to gain the croozer holds that will bring you to the top of the wall.

This route starts 4 m to the right of the trickling chimney that splits the to Upper walls. Pull on 45 degree sloping ledges to gain a stance at the first bolt. Then continue up the crimpy slab face before reaching easy ground that will lead you to the anchor.

This Climb starts on the left side of the main headwall. Begin on a staircase like step for the first move then continue onto a right trending ledge break left at the first bolt 10 feet off the deck. Climb straight up over a small bulge halfway up the route. Cruise up easy moves to a last steep section just before the anchor for a final short crux.

Start on crimps and side pulls at a slightly overhanging start then continue of the face to a little halfway up the wall halfway up the wall. Traverse left across the slab and continue up the second half of the wall to an anchor located on the highest point of the cliff.

From the left edge of a left trending ramp climb up to a camouflaged first bolt that blends in with the lycan. Continue up good holds on less than vertical Rock before getting to a steep  dihedral with a massive block consisting of good holds. Pull through the overhang and squeeze into the gunsight Gap before reaching easier climbing that Brings you to the anchor.

This is the fourth climb from the right on the second wall.  Start on crimpy crux moves and pull onto a ledge.  Then continue up steep terrain till the climb eases off for a mellow finish. 

Climb onto a block then clip the first bolt 10 feet off the ground. Continue up large holds on steep mediocre rock  of aretes and dihedrals. Continue on to a large ledge and then Steam up the upper section on to the anchor.

This is a fun little area that is the closest sport crag to Valdez.  There are some recent routes that have sprouted this summer (2011).  A big thanks to those that have helped develop the crag.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Valdez Glacier Campground