This may be the easiest route, at 10d, at the crag. The first bolt is a little high but not too hard to clip.  The crux comes at about the third bolt, and the climbing is made easier by stemming in this section.  This would not be a good lead for novices whether they climb the grade or not.

Book Learnin'

Jethro

Pesky Varmints

Moonshine

Ellie May

Start your battle on the left side of the slab, way left of the tree. The crux is moving over the small overhang with bad feet right after the 2nd clip. Small edges and balance intensive footwork lead past the remaining two clips. This short, little climb is pretty fun and engaging but still a little dirty. Don't leave your pack open at the base or it will be showered with lichen.

It is hard to clip the first bolt on this without making some risky moves.  The crux is between the first and second bolts but it is not easy, or safe, to get to the first bolt.  The slab above the first two bolts is fairly easy to ascend.

The crux comes right off the ground. Make some thin moves on steep rock with poor feet to an in-cut jug at the 2nd clip. Make gym like moves on jugs till you are over the steep stuff. One more balancy move above the last clip leads to the anchor.

This route is entertaining for how short it is.  The crux comes above the second bolt where you pull on small holds onto the slab above.  The climbing is much easier after you get over the crux bulge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hillbilly Rock 3