If you're like me, attempting a route that features awkward, flaring 5.11 moves protected by thin, tricky gear is not really at the top of your list of things to do.  But the Old Stone Face is such a beautiful formation in a truly amazing setting.  So what to do?  Well, I tried aiding this route a few weeks ago and found it to be an excellent adventure.  The first twenty feet where the 5.11 moves are found can be aided cleanly on aliens and small wires.  Offest aliens would really do the job, if you've got some.  Then, step out of the aiders and feast upon a sinker hand crack before hitting the next crux - a bulging roof.  Grab the point of aid on the only bolt on the route, commit to the face move above it, and continue on to a surprise finish!

Nasal Drip

Brain Surgery

Brain Surgery is on the shady side of the face. Watch out for the Poison Oak as you traverse onto a generous ledge with an easy clipping stance (depending on how tall you are.

One tough bouldery move gets your feet up on a bulge where you can clip the second bolt with ease. Slap your way out to the right while pasting your feet on vertical nothingness. After getting your body weight out right, mantle up onto the ledge. A third bolt can be clipped mid-mantle or after standing up on the ledge.

Move up to the fourth bolt where juggy hand holds and an easy mantle bring you to the base of the finger crack. You might have to do a move or two to get high enough to sink in a piece of gear. Pull your way to the top with painful finger-locks and worthless pastes.

The most difficult thing about the crack is the downward direction it faces. the rock below is smooth and facing away from you making smears from a layback position very difficult (not to mention the lichen at top.)

This route is pretty classic and makes the long hike worth it. It is almost like a series of boulder problems connected by rest ledges.

Description

Protection

Routes in Old Stone Face