Vertical face climbing using edges and ending on a jug.

Options Trader

Birthday Sex

BRIC Fund

Capital Income Builder

Angel Wings Left

Instant Karma

Jailhouse Booty

Goonies

Basis Points

Watering Hole

Angel Wings Right

Angel Fire

Vaguely Dog-like Creature

James Bond

Sit start to thin edges.  Watch out for the thorny bush at the top.

Sit start on two slopers just above a crack. Move your left hand to gaston and your right to a jug. Move up and left. The crux is topping out the ledge. The topout is tall on good rock moving left on a ramp.

Start on

Angel Fire's

jugs, then go out left, and finish with the topout.

Incredible sequential problem to a sketchy top out.  Excellent layback moves on thin edges, all overhanging.  Possibly the most fun problem in the valley.

Phallic bouldering problem on a crystal-filled arete.

2nd problem in the area.  Sit start with a throw to a good jug on the right, followed by another throw to a very thin crimp rail.  Short but good problem.

This is a fun yet deceptively challenging line up an obvious, blunt arete. Stand start with your hands on a couple of small hold then move up and right. The top out is relatively high, but all the hard climbing is in the first ~12 feet, so it feels very safe. A pleasing combination of technical footwork and strength are required. It is definitely worth doing!

Start on

Angel Fire's

jugs, then go out right, and finish the topout with a high right heel.

This starts on a 2 handed jug, which is followed by very small crimps. The route is a direct topout - it doesn't traverse to either side. Make sure not to use anything left of the crack, or it's downgraded to V1.

This is a great problem, essentially it is a low traverse of the

Angel Fire

face. Start as for

Goonies

on obvious jugs, but instead of traversing high or heading straight up, move through the low thin crimp rail to a toss to the crack. Continue traversing right and end on the easy flake topout on the right side of the boulder.

Start with both hands on a flake-like jug.  Move up to the horizontal crack, and finish up and to the left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Rocks Camping Area