Great route to do if you're in the area, and much better than it looks from the ground. Textbook NRG high steps and crimps.

Hilti as Charged

Thundering Herd

Fat Man's Folly

Chasin' the Wind

Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!

Mononuclear Knows It

Another classic and spicy Goodman route, you'll need your v-power and trad head for this thing. Start up less-than ideal rock in the shale band just right of a blunt arete, the first 30 feet are 5.11 r/x, and not particularly easy to read. Angle around the arete to the base of a series of roofs. From here it's good gear and better movement, some huge moves will get you nice and pumped for the redpoint crux, which involves tricky deadpoints and high feet.  Past the crux is more 5.11 climbing to the clifftop.

Climb the corner to reach a short section of chimney.  Grunt through the wide section to reach a nice hand crack.  Follow crack until you reach a roof. At this point, follow a left leaning hand crack for 15 ft and then straight up to the finish.  The diagonal crack is outstanding!  Don't be turned off by the chimney section, it's not that bad and the gear is good.

From the hanging belay, traverse right about 15 ft to the edge of the arete.  Pull up using a short vertical crack to gain a stance (crux).  Continue up the arete, climbing mostly the face to the left of the arete.  This route protects very well.  Just before the top, you must make some thin slabby moves to reach the ledge above really solid gear.

One of the best cracks of its grade at the NRG. It's best to pitch this thing out to reach the 30ft-high starting ledge. Most people climb up the boulders/gully feature from the left; it's not too bad but you'll still want to place a few pieces. There's also a sandbagged 12c NRG sport start on the Naz Naz, or a worthy single-bolted, PG-13 12a start up the center of the ledge feature, if you want to up the ante a little.

Once at the base of the obvious crack, pick your jaw up off the ledge and enjoy bomber NRG fingerlock/mini-jugs, with the cruxes being longer reaches between good locks. Take a nice selection of medium to large nuts, as well as small and medium-sized cams; gear is very straightforward. There are bolted anchors at a stance about ten feet below the clifftop. As I remember, you cannot rappel to the ground with a 70m rope, but it's easy for multiple people to toprope from the ledge.

Pull a move or two in order to gain the dihedral.  Stemming, high stepping and thin fingers will bring you to a stance from which you traverse right to a bomber flake.  Pull a couple of slightly overhanging moves to a good stance and follow some classic NRG topout slopers to the anchors.

Crack system with a tree growing on the ledge ten feet up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6) Middle Beauty