One of the longer pitches at Dear John Buttress.

Start on the left side of the roof and climb diagonally up and right.  At the horizontal crack go right/somewhat down to turn the arete. Surmount the small ledge.

From the ledge pull the crux with a bolt at your chest but your belayer out of sight.  Follow the arete via bolts and an easy finger crack (kinda cool), then wander left putting you above all the other climbs.  Gear belay between the giant summit blocks.  Walk off.

Stony End

God of Thunder (5.11b Variation)

Brother of John

Stony Highway

Tag Team

Fight the Power

God of Plunder

Stone Cold Power

Hushed Passage

God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation)

God of Thunder (.10c Variation)

God of Thunder, Pitch 2

Rehab

Drug Crazed

Start to the left of Stone Cold Crazy next to the overhanging roof. Climb up dikes and flairing cracks traversing hard right to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to the wide horizontal crack half way up and traverse to the right again passing an old bolt. Keep traversing right to a thin crack in a black streak. Follow this crack strait up to the anchors above.

A bouldery start, protected by thin gear, leads to a section of good hands.  The line finishes on a flared finger splitter and face moves.

Probably the lowest-quality route I did in Tahoe, but still sort of fun. Gear is somewhat tricky in the flaring crack. Crux comes before the first bolt, so maybe not a good one to push your limits on?

Start up to the left of the overhanding roof on the right side of the formation. Climb up dikes and flaring cracks traversing left over the roof to a thin finger crack. Follow the finger crack to a wide horrizontal crack and traverse right to an old bolt. Clip the bolt and start up more thin cracks above passing a piton just before the crux. This upper crack is just to the Left of the second half of Drug Crazed. The first half of this route is shared with the first half of Drug Crazed until you reach the wide horrizontal crack.

Start up the God of Thunder corner. Instead of traversing right to the chains, continue straight up the corner. Reach the roof, and make a scrunched traverse left and around the arête. Finish up the last bit of hand crack on Rehab and use those anchors to descend. The moves to reach the roof are a little strange, and, at least in my opinion, might be the crux.

Flared crack that is hard at the start and hard at the top where it is finger sized and easy in the middle where it is hands gets you to an intermediate anchor at about 35'. Continue straight up the face on patina jugs linked by flared seams and some very height dependent moves. Turn the roof at a flared painful hand jam and continue up the face above.

-Beautiful face and line, cool movement, some distance between bolts all make this a great route.

-The awkwardness of the roof and the hand jam keep it from being absolutely classic.

Found to the right of Brother of John, the route is probably named for its roof, which bears a remarkable similarity to the upper crux on the second pitch of God of Thunder.  Fortunately, this roof goes at 5.8, a far sight easier than God of Thunder's 5.11c crux.  Mossy face climbing and cobweb-filled cracks make this one of the dirtiest climbs at the Leap, yet its presence on the Dear John Buttress keeps it out of afternoon sun.

Do Stone Cold Crazy to the horizontal (skipping the no hands rest out left) then do the upper head wall of Fight the Power, skipping the bolts.

The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.

The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.

Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux.  This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.

Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.

Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.

Great jamming and stemming in a fun, dike laced corner.

Splitter hand crack for first 15 feet, crack becomes featured for another 15 feet, last 10 feet is the crux flared, splitter finger crack.

There is a second pitch directly above this route that ends with two offwidth roof cracks, I think the first one goes at .11b and the second at .11c.

There is a bolted anchor on the face above each roof.

Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.

Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.

This route runs up a bolted route just left of the small arete route Hushed Passage (5.10c), bolted until you get up to a flared crack about 60 feet off the ground.  Pro is adequate at the crux. Continue in the crack system up to a bolts, which are shared with Tag Team (5.10a).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dear John Buttress