Great sport climb, starts with technical slab with thin layback 11-.This leads to a 10+ mantel which brings one to large ledge. Jugs lead to a bulge with a powerful crux 11+. A climber has fallen from near the top and slammed into the wall hard enough to crack a rib, so don't blow the final moves... Its all there just slightly committing if going for the onsight.

Engines of Archimedes

Active Boys Puke a Lot

Heat Seeker

Fiction

Clay

Colins Gooch

Tango for Two

Sleeping Village

Into the Void

The Zipper (Complete Aid)

Bravo Jean Marc

Gerberding Route

Shamans Gooch

Snowblind

Supernaught

Not Sheer Strength

Extended Play

Changes

The Zipper

The Green Room

Fairies Wear Boots

Cornucopia

Infinite Jest

Friendly Fire

All Dogs Go to Heaven

Electric Funeral

Attractive Nuisance

The Wizard

A short but worthwhile route on quality stone.  Makes a good warm up or combines well with the Zipper, Sideshow, Davis Holland for a moderate day of UTW craging.

Start by climbing up the right side of a large flake, no pro but its easy and juggy.  Clip a bolt and pull on to a slab (easier than it looks).  The climbing above in the corner involves stemming, liebacks, high steps, and the usual Index trickery.

After doing the initial corner of the Zipper (5.9), place gear and move up and right to the bolted face. For many, the crux is after the second bolt. After the third bolt, you can either move up and into the corner crack, or stay on the face and trend left to the belay.

Step off block and climb up and left.

One bolt followed by some thin cracks brings you to a good stance below a steep bulge.  Another bolt gets you past the bulge with difficulty and on your way to the finish.

Start on a flake just left of The Zipper. Pull up onto the slab. The crux is a little above the level of the corner on the Zipper P1, after which is a long leadout. Trend up and right back to the Zipper P1 anchor.

Can be TRed using the Zipper anchor.

Pitch one is fairly well-travelled. Pitch two may not have seen an ascent in the last fifteen years. The first pitch corner has it all; well, almost! Thin, funky climbing off the ground leads to a lieback past two bolts to a crack and a stance under a roof. Crack, face climbing past wild jugs and finally stemming leads to a tricky crux finish. Spectacular climbing.

P2 climbs a slab up to the Beach. 5.10+ R; most likely not equipped for ('safe') free climbing.

A short chimney with slashes of quartz. A good warmup for other lines in the area. Fun chimney moves. Extend the anchor over the lip if planning to toprope. Still a little loose rocks in the back of the chimney but quickly cleaning up

Follows and awkward, left-leaning, flaring corner just right of The Zipper.

Has its harder sections near the ground and up near the end. Joins the same belay as The Zipper.

This is a linkup of the bottom half of Cornucopia and the top half of Bravo Jean Marc. Climb Cornucopias slightly overhung bouldery splitter. From a small ledge break over to where you can traverse over to Bravo Jean Marc insanely amazing crack. Unfortunately Cornucopia tends to grow over with brush seasonally

Clip a bolt down low and make a few moves to a flake. Place a small stopper or two and make a powerful move to a jug.

Start on the free climb "Zipper".

For P2, aid the roof, continue to the Beach.

For P3-P6, follow the description for "Up'er Zipper", which is in "The Beach" section of the Upper Town Walls. Or, click here:

mountainproject.com/v/uper-…

There is a flat spot to belay from as the trail turns the corner under Snowblind. Start here and climb to a ledge at ~15 feet. Climb past the horizontal break to the left trending splitter and follow this to the top.

Amazing splitter seriously crazy good knobby rock. One of the most splitter lines at Index.

Use knobs to step up and into the corner to start the route.  Follow cracks up to a small roof near the top and move right to join the last moves on the Green Room.

This route received a thorough retro cleaning in May 2013.  All loose blocks were dislodged and it is now a solid, protectable and quality lead for the grade.

A thin crack that snakes up to a ledge. From the ledge step right and clip a bolt following a thin balancy dike to the top with a small tcu or two. The bottom of the crack takes good small nuts and small tcus but are difficult to place. A bolt has been added since the FA so now it no longer has the spicy start.

Start up Bravo Jean Marc and after 15ft head up toward the chimney at base of knob-studded arete. Slap heel hook and balance up the sharp arete with an interesting movement. Once it slopes out make a engaging sequential move to an often wet crimp. Then a few more  amazing slopey body tension moves to the top.

A thin crack with a bolt down low. Great bouldery movement that keeps one on their toes!

I don't know anything about this climb other than it is chipped and looks very cool. The climb follows and obvious crack up to and through a roof, just to the right of Attractive Nuisance.

Climb powerful moves on "Not Sheer Strength" (AKA LaBomba Roof) and finish up a forearm intensive rail using heel hooks or a more simple campus technique. Actually pretty fun.  Originally graded 13a/b. 13a seems appropriate. Personally the crux moves on NSS is the crux. ALWAYS DRY.

Start on Snowblind/Bravo Jean Marc. Climb up toward Snowblind arete on splitter cracks and knobs. Once on a night ledge climb up stunning crimps and bolts. Save a .3 or .4 piece for just under the anchor

The first pitch is often climbed as it is a fun .10 slab/thin crack.

Pitch 2 is the obvious roof that is visible from the road. Pitch 4 starts from the Beach, so is technically on the Upper Cheeks.

For pitch 1, climb a steep 5.9 corner with a crack to access the slab. Thin crack and crux slab climbing lead to a bolted, chain anchor below the roof. Continue via aid or descend. One 70-m rope is more than enough to rap off or toprope.

Climb up knobs past bolts to a difficult stem at a small bulge.  Finish up left facing corner.

Start up juggy climbing too a boulder problem throwing to two big knobs. From there classic slab moves lead to a shallow corner. Stem and press your way up the fantastic knob studded corner to a small roof, face climb to another corner and anchor

Climb a slightly overhung thin crack down low to a bolt and work in small but good gear carefully. Do a bouldery move to gain a ledge and go left to a big hollow flake with bolts.

Obvious steep line between Heat Seeker and Friendly Fire

Short but sweet. To the right of Clay is a slab leading to a roof and steep corner above. Climb them past 8 or 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The crux is pulling over the roof above the starting ramp but the corner above is really tricky and sustained.

A mostly bolted climb with wonderful bouldery moves . The bottom moves are fun and balancy. The true crux is a tough techy reach.

A fun route with interesting, balancey moves.  Weird, because the rig overhangs about 35-40 degrees, but it's technical and tricky.  The redpoint crux is clipping the anchor. But the best part is that is is ALWAYS dry for both climber and belayer because of the huge roof overhead.  Bring some sticky shoes you like to smear with.  To get there, take a right at the base of the Upper Town Wall and follow the trail along the base.  In about 5 minutes, you will reach the huge A Frame roof overhead.  You can't miss it.  It's the leftmost steep sport route in the alcove to the right.

Start by walking your feet up the groove of Less Than Zero and laybacking the left arete of the pillar. Once you can reach around the right arete slap up the right side until you can compress.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Cheeks