A fun mixed route with good good gear and good pulling.

Solid for the grade, this route offers various techniques and varied terrain. Follow the obvious crack system past two bolts.

London Bridges

Wife and 2 Kids

Thor's Unhappy

The Straw

Hair Raiser

Prodigal Son

3 overhangs to get you pumped. This climb stays 5.10 at the 1st overhang. Easy till then. Don't waste all you energy on the 1st one cause you will be spent for the next two. The holds are there but good luck finding them. The climb doesn't look that tough but for me it was a great pump. Popeye forearms.

This route has some nice little moves in it with good holds.  The Uinta Rock guidebook gives it a 5.7, but given the altitude (10,400 ft) I think it's fair to bump this to at least 5.8.  The cruxy section in the middle is a "little" steep but within two moves it's over.  We found a Diet Coke can on top of the route from 1986 so I'm guessing it doesn't see much action.

The route gets to a large ledge on top ideal for belaying/anchoring, but you can climb a deep flake to the right of the roof feature another 10 feet to the top.

Follow edges and a few small breaks up a steep and tenuous face. A small tcu helps protect a spacious spot.

Roof cranking fun and worth a run.

Horizontal and vertical cracks. Water coming out of the rock at the start. Off balance moves throughout the climb.

This somewhat inobvious line tackles an uninspiring corner system on standard Uintas blocky choss. Expect lichen, looseness, and the occasional cool move.

Start by scampering up a short vertical section to reach a wide grassy ledge (where I imagine you could belay if you wanted to pitch this thing out). Scramble up large stacked blocks to the base of a dihedral and tiptoe up to a roof, placing small gear on the outside of the wide crack and muttering obscenities about how lush the lichen is. Pull the roof and continue up the shallow dihedral aiming for the summit blocks. Look around for a while hoping to find fixed hardware. Give up, build a belay (multiple small pieces will work), bring up your second, walk off.

When I did the route this spring I wasn't even sure I was on the right line until I spotted 2 #11 BD nuts side by side under a large loose block. Looks like a very optimistic party belayed and maybe even rapped off them? Holler if you want your small boat anchors back.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Castle Lake