Goodrich to the Oasis is a climb that offers a bit of everything. Expect runout friction (if climbing Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side), well protected face climbing, spots of tricky route finding, overgrown crack systems, some loose rock, and seasonally wet climbing. The pitches tend to be better down low, and decrease in quality as you climb, but the adventurous nature of the climb makes up for what the upper pitches lack.

Pitch numbers are in reference to the Clint Cummins topo of Galactic Hitchhiker that can be found here.

stanford.edu/~clint/yos/gal…

Pitch lengths are approximate, and should only serve as a rough guide.

Pitches 1-8: Goodrich Pinnacle - Right Side as seen on the topo. (The Goodrich Pinnacle - Left Side is also another option to reach the top of the Pinnacle)

Pitch 9: Climb the face to a piton in a small roof, then up to a bolt. Traverse left after the first bolt to another, then follow the ramp up and right to a belay with a bolt and a piton or two. ~75 feet 5.9

Pitch 10: Follow a thin crack up and left from the belay about 20 feet to two closely spaced bolts. Traverse left, then up the left facing dihedral, passing a fixed piton. Climb up the face above, passing three bolts, then trend up and left to a right facing dihedral that leads to a ledge with several bolts of varying quality to belay. ~125 feet 5.10a

Pitch 11: From the belay, traverse out right, getting into the left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral, surmounting a small roof, and up into a thin splitter crack. Above the crack, there is a small ledge, and easy climbing leads to Beck's Bivy. 3 bolts for an anchor. ~110 feet, 5.8

Pitch 12: Easy, overgrown 5th class takes you up to a ledge that is supposed to have three pitons for an anchor. The pitons may be missing. ~60 feet, Easy 5th

Pitch 13: From the ledge, climb the crack to a roof. Going left is supposedly 5.10a, and leads to a large, left facing dihedral chute that eases after the entry moves. Going right under the roof follows roughly 5.8 climbing. The right side of the roof is overgrown and dirty, and then follows a good splitter crack (varying between off fingers and hand sized) which has some intermittent plants. Eventually, traverse back left to enter the large, left facing dihedral chute. Once in the chute, follow it until you can escape right on a band of smooth, white, marble-like rock that takes you to a ledge with three bolts. ~150 feet 5.10a, or 5.8 munge/bushwhacking (With a short bit of simul-climbing on easy terrain, pitches 12 and 13 can be combined with a 60m rope.)

Pitch 14: The aforementioned 10b section as noted on the Cummins topo is supposedly straight above the belay. I opted for easier climbing back off left. From here, route finding skills are your friend, and my pitches vary from the topo a bit. You can climb back into the chute, following that up, and continuing into a more broken ledge/dihedral system than angles up and to the right. Watch for loose or rotten rock, and pass by the occasional fixed piton. Most of the climbing is easy fifth, with possible moves of 5.7 or 5.8 strewn about. Stop and build a gear anchor where it seems fitting. I recall a fixed piton with slings on it that marked my belay. Keep your eyes peeled for a suitable rappel station as well. ~180 feet, 5.7?

Pitch 15: Continue up the broken ledge/dihedral system to a ledge with a bolt and two pitons for an anchor. You are now directly below the bolt ladder that continues up to Galactic Hitchhiker, and are looking up and right at the Oasis. ~80 feet, 5.7?

Pitch 16: Traverse right and down, then up, passing seasonally wet, heavily overgrown, and possibly muddy climbing. It's all very easy, but careful with wet shoes. The two bolts mentioned on the Cummins topo were nowhere to be found by me. They could have been in the jungle of plants somewhere. Continuing up the left-facing corner and doing it all as one pitch is reasonable and suggested. Gear anchor, or use the large pine tree. Welcome to The Oasis! ~180 feet, 5.7

To rappel the route, you need two 60m ropes. Bringing webbing or cord, as well as a knife to clean up old tat on anchors is highly recommended. Rap from the large pine tree at The Oasis to the top of Pitch 15. Then rap down, searching for a possible 3 piton rap station that was off further right from the climbing route, and lower than the single piton + gear anchor for the top of pitch 14. Other options may exist using fixed pitons on the route, but gear may need to be left to beef a lone piton up. Don't be dumb and rap off a single, old piton! From here, rap down to the 3 bolt anchor atop of pitch 13. Now rap down to Becks Bivy, which is a rope stretcher! (Optionally, you may be able to make the easy 5th class and down climb.) With two 60m ropes, I had a couple feet of rope leftover when my feet were on the ledge. Now rap down to the top of pitch 10, then another full length rappel to the top of Goodrich Pinnacle. From here, rap down Goodrich Pinnacle. Especially for the last rap gaining the top of Goodrich Pinnacle, put knots in the ends of your ropes, since many of the raps also involve a bit of traversing and can be rope stretchers.

Goodrich to the Oasis

The Goblet

Hanging Pillar

Above Tree Line

Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route

Retro Fit

Day light to Midnight

Seal the Deal

Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side

McPherson Struts

Hoosier’s Highway

Hall of Mirrors

Going Under

Galactic Hitchhiker

Blinky Blunt

Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side

Mojo Rising

Goodrich Pinnacle is seen up and left of Monday Morning Slab. A 700' exfoliation slab, with a distinct left-side. The right-side is only a side for the last 100'.

Start from the top of  the Gob, a slabby formation a few hundred feet left of Monday Morning Slab and directly below the pinnacle.

Climb (5.5) above the Gob to a sandy Belay ledge.

Climb up and right between a dihedral and a white flake (5.7). Belay at the top of the flake.

Climb up to a to a left-diagonaling crack . At the cracks end, move up and right (5.8) to a belay ledge.

Climb up (5.7) to where a traverse right leads to a belay anchor.

Move up to a bolt, then move left (5.9) to the base of the right-side chimney.

Climb the chimney (5.7) to the top of the pinnacle.

To top rope with 60m - must be on ledge. Fun slabby climb. Great place to practice slab. A bit nervous with rock fall rumors.

This modern route (2014) is well protected face climbing . The rock is unusually rough (for the apron) as the chimney above shelters it from running water and sliding snow from above. This is one of the best quality routes of its grade on the apron.

P1) Climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet

P2).9 - 4 bolts - From the far left side of the long ledge at the top of the Goblet, climb the R facing corner to the roof. Step L over roof onto slab and climb knobs,friction and micro flakes(.9) to the 4th bolt. Traverse L to ez ramp and up R to 2 bolt belay on ramp/ledge.

P3) 160' .10b - 10 bolts - Step L on to slab(.9) then up and L on moderate edging(bolted) to arête on L side of the hanging pillar. Climb moderate arête to steeper, knobby arête crux(pimpin .10b). Continue up arête then out R and back L to summit of the hanging pillar w/2 bolt anchor.

Below the Mouth Route are 2 side by side 3rd class corners. This is at the left edge of the Flakey Flunt slab (which is left of Misty Beethoven). Above Tree Line is the crack ( with 3 tiny trees) that is 10' right of the righthand 3rd class corner. This non strenuous crack is mostly a friction climb with crack protection and good finger and shallow tips locks.There is a ledge with 3 bolts at the top (140') The 6 bolt unrecorded friction face (.10a) that's 20' right of this crack line is also a good route or TR.

Climb to the top of the chimney described below and belay. Step out Rt. onto the slab, traversing diagonally up and right to a bolt. Continue traversing right another 20-25 feet to a second bolt, then climb directly up and then to a belay ledge slightly left. From the belay ledge climb up about 20 feet to a bolt, and then down and right towards a small ledge., then up and right to another bolt. Another few (5.9) moves culminate on a ledge(crux). The final lead climbs almost directly upwards to "Patio Pinnacle."

Retro Fit is located 10' right of Seal the Deal or 40' right of McPerson  Struts. An ez short left facing corner leads to a bolt. Go up and right to another bolt, then climb discontinuous right facing corners to the ledge. Avoid the bushes at the top by climbing up and right to ledge. Traverse left 30' to bolts and rap 100'. This previously unrecorded route had one bolt and 2 fixed pegs and was put in over 35 years ago. I removed the pegs and drilled 2 bolts. The route is a well protected 5.8 route with a .10a move right above the third bolt.

P1) Climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet.  P2) 160' - .9+ - 7 bolts -Start from the R side of the long ledge on top of the Goblet next to an old 1/4" bolt. Climb 10' up L facing corner then move L to small R facing corner. Clip bolt above this R facing corner, step R and high step(.9/.9+) to 2nd bolt. Go up(.9)past 3 more bolts then angle R to bolt below small roof. Step R and climb over R side of roof(.9) to 7th bolt then up to 2 bolt anchor on ledge just R of chimney. This is one of the best,sustained .9 pitches of slab edgeing anywhere. P3) 180' - .10b - 9 bolts + 3 fixed nuts - Climb to 2nd bolt above belay and mantle 2 knobs. Go up knobs to blank L facing corner to 5th bolt on ledge. Climb crack/seam(10a/b) above (micro nuts, small nuts, small cams + 4" cam) to bolt. Step R under roof (1/4" cam) then big step R (.10b/a) above roof and up knobs to 8th bolt on shelf. Traverse 5' R then up to tiny R facing flake (nut) the up and L (.9) to ledge with bolt. Climb above bolt(.8) to higher ledge w/bolts. Super Classic sustained pitch. P4) 110' - .10a/b - 5 bolts + fixed peg - Clip 1st bolt just 4' from belay- then (.9) up to ledge. Go up R (cam) and traverse L on ledge to R facing flake (1 1/2" to 3" cams). Go up past 4 bolts (.10a/b) to belay stance w/2 bolts. P5) 120' - .10b - 3 bolts + f.p. - Climb long L facing flake(.9) then up(.8) to ledge. Go R to bolt then traverse R(ez) to 2nd bolt. 4' of 5.10 friction above this bolt to ez knobs and 3rd bolt. Traverse R to Patio Pinnacle. Climb L side to 3 bolts on top. This is probably the easiest pitch but it does have the hardest moves. Every pitch on this Super Classic modern route (2017) is well protected with maximum runouts of 10' to 15' on 5.8 or harder. This is the only well protected route on Patio Pinnacle that I know of. It's also the only route on Patio that you don't need a hammer and pegs.

Start 30' right of McPerson Struts and climb up to first bolt ( about 15' ). Sustained .10 edging (.10d/ .11a ) leads past the fifth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the seventh bolt. Sustained .11 edging (.11 b ) leads to the top. From the last bolt , angle up and right to ledge and traverse 20' left to bolts . Rap 100'.

This is a sustained and fairly runout slab climb.  The crux comes approximately 2/3 the way between the first and second bolt, but the entire climb is quite exciting.  Make sure you have your head straight for this one!

Hoosier’s Highway is an old school runnout classic with what seems to be pitch after pitch of blank stone without any distractions caused by fiddling with gear.

Start up a 4th class corner which is the start to Goodrich Right. One can also climb McPherson Struts to the ledge for a good warm up and more direct approach.

P2. Walk up the 3rd class ledge to the left and follow a right slanting shallow crack/dike past a couple bolts, over a small bulge and the first runnout of what’s to become standard issue.

P3. Climb the blank face above looking for a lone bolt out in a sea of granite. Look carefully as you really don’t want to miss it.

P4. Move out right under a small roof heading for a bolt that protects the move over it. Continue up the face past another lonely bolt to the anchors. This pitch parallels the Patio and it appears one could delicately traverse right and bail off onto it. Which is not an unreasonable proposition.

P5. Climb up and slightly right to bolt protecting the edgy slab above. Good news is, there’s actually some holds on this pitch, and gear that just might hold a small slip. Bad news is, the climbings a lot harder and you’ll be stoked to find the anchors above.

P6. Just go for it. The anchors are up there somewhere. Some hooks and duct tape would be nice!

P7. I think they just gave up. More edgy slab with a few places you could probably get something in and a bolt. Some KB’s and a bolt kit would be best.

P8.-10. The book doesn’t really show where to go. We went up and slightly right where we ran into the upper pitches of Coonyard to the Oasis. I suspect the F.A. did the same, though it’s possible they just ran it out all the way to Valhalla from here. No, seriously!!

Quite possibly the best slab climb in the world. 16 pitches of granite slab, comprised of various angles and texture, all of them amazing.

The bottom pitches are glassy smooth, lower angle, and hugely runout. Your shoes will squeak on the polished granite, and you'll have to keep moving lest your feet creep off. If you do blow it, at least your belayer will have  time to reel in armloads of slack as you slide down the climb.

At pitch 4-6, you'll have the choice of the original line which goes straight up, or the Spring Time Dry variation to the left.

Above pitch 7, The Hang, the climb becomes gradually ever steeper, harder, and better bolted (though it's still spicy).

On pitch 14, head left to the Flake In The Sky bivy ledge. After that, 2 pitches up and right to the U-Shaped Bowl. From there, follow Coonyard to Rim, or rappel the route (all anchors are equipped with rap rings).

Shoes take a lot of abuse on this climb, especially on the long sliding falls. People have reported burning through multiple pairs of shoes while working on (and falling off) a single move.

Free Ascents

FA - Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, 9/80

added the final pitches 13-16

5 days on continuous ascent

a couple of short sections of p13 were toproped, instead of led. In these sections, the bolts were placed as aid ladders, then the leader lowered to free the moves, but left the rope clipped in from the aid high point.

2nd FA - Jonny Woodward, John Bercaw, 10/92

1 day on continuous ascent

Preparation (10/92): 2 days, mostly for bolt replacement (p13-16)

Preparation (5/92): 4 days, including establishing the "Springtime Dry Variation", Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel.

3rd FA - Alex Honnold, Oct 19th, 2011.

Climbing #141, AAJ '82 [Edit: , Mountain #69]

Early pitches freed

p9-12, started p13 - 5.12c - Chris Cantwell, Scott Cole, 1979

p3-8.5 - 5.12b - Dave Austin, Chris Cantwell, Bruce Morris, 1978

p1-2 - 5.11a - Mark Wilford, 1975

Climb sustained  5.11 edging from bolt 1 to bolt 8. There are a few rests and a few 5.11+ cruxes, no .12 moves ; makes a good .11+ TR. The route ends at chains on the friction traverse ledge that leads from Goodrich Right to the top of McPherson Struts.

One of the only two routes gain to the top of Glacier Point by Glacier Point Apron. The only for mortal one. Take 8 pitches of Goodrich Pinnacle Right Side and another 8 to The Oasis. First climbed by Lou Renner and Matt Brooks 10/95 as 41 pitches grade 6 challenge. Standard rack as Goodrich Pinnacle plus few extra quickdraw. First crux 10d on 21 pitch for me was really hard with some pack and possible 10b A0. The second crux (whole block of 7-8 pitches) we bypass by new variation on the right.

Definitely must light in one day.

About 40' left of Misty Beethoven is a crack/ seam ( 5.8 ) in a left facing corner. Blinky Blunt is the bolted line (ground up , as are all my valley routes) left of this left facing corner. Above the sixth bolt is a left facing flake that takes a #2 and a #3 beak (hand placed) (0ptional) and a 3/4" and 1" cams. Step left to another left facing flake and up to double bolts. Rap 100'. Great pitch, well protected ; expect sustained .8 with 3 to 6 .9 cruxes

The left side of Goodrich Pinnacle is a Prominent siries of left-facing dihedrals, several hundred feet, left of Monday Morning Slab.

The pinnacle was named after Don Goodrich, who died on the West Face of Mt. Conness in 1959.

The climb follows these dihedrals for five pitches to the top of the pinnacle.

Descend by rappel.

The route climbs 3 pitches above the Goblet.

Pitch 1 70'  climb or 3rd class to the top of the Goblet.

Pitch 2  150' .9  Belay at bolts on top of the Goblet. Traverse R to the end of the ledge- a L facing corner with an old bolt. Climb to the top of the L facing corner ( optional 1 1/4" cam) to a bolt. Climb past 5 bolts (.9) (purple fixe hangers) to a small L facing corner/seam with a good fixed head. Go L then up (.8) to bolted belay or go up and R then L (.8- ) to belay ledge.

Pitch 3  110' .11a  Go up 4 bolts (.10). The crux is above. At the horizontal crack ( nuts 1/8" to 1/2" ) go up ez ledges to 6th bolt then .9 to tiny belay stance with 2 bolts.

Pitch 4 80' .11b  With 8 bolts and good rests - this pitch is safe and good fun. It is sustained  .10c to .11a cruxes. The technical crux is .11a friction and the route crux is freeclimbing to the top of the pitch without falling or cheating.

The route was put in onsight and , like all my routes, ground up with a hand drill. Every pitch is quality, sustained micro flake edging on top quality rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Goodrich Pinnacle Area