P1: Climb up chimney on the southwest downhill side to a belay in an alcove. 

  P2: Get established in the groove and clip a piton (crux) and continue up the long chimney to the top. Description from Needles Mini Climbing Guide. 

  Descent: one 70m rope

Conn Route

Ruby Slippers

Kamps Route

East Face

Excellent face climbing up low angle rock with horizontal cracks. Supplement bolts with gear.

A great Scary Larry .11 in the spires that's harder than it looks! A short, but hard first pitch to an easier, but spicy second pitch.1) 5.11+ 2 bolts, 2 pins, gearClimb up the short crack getting good gear to a long reach clipping the first bolt. Rest up before launching into the strenuous and semi-awkward flakes. Never run-out, but sustained.Build an anchor when the angle backs off to a ramp.2) 5.10 PG13 1 bolt, gear (flavorful)Head up past one low bolt on the wall to the right through the cool looking bulges. The harder climbing is well protected by gear, but expect some route finding and some moderate face climbing up higher above some questionable and spacey gear.

This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire.  Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney.  Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag.  The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a flared crack and tops out.

This spire is shorter and downhill from Khayyam spire.  Both Khayyam and Rubaiyat were named by Beckey (a Rubaiyat is a four line poem, in this case by Omar Khayyam).  There are several lines up this.  The original Conn line is 2 pitches from the downhill (southwest) side, or you can get up in one pitch from the north side.   

  An example of a Rubaiyat of Khayyam:   

  If with wine you are drunk be happy,    If seated with a moon-faced (beautiful), be happy,    Since the end purpose of the universe is nothing-ness;    Hence picture your nothing-ness, then while you are, be happy!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rubaiyat Spire