A odd but popular route. Worth the venture to Upper Shaman.

 Climb the funky flakes at the start past two bolts. Above the second bolt you can get a #3 camalot. Move to the right side of the headwall at a really good hold on the arete to clip the bolt. Clip the bolt and make the reachy move left to get into the eyebrows. One more bolt gets you over this bulge. Easy slab leads to a final bulge. Gear can be had below the bulge, then a bolt in the bulge to anchors.

 An alternative finish can be done after the second bolt. Move up and left out of the flake that arches left. Finish the same.

 The anchors were extended by the CCC to make pulling the rope easier.

Grass Fed

Daddy Day Care

Free Ranged

Similax Crack

Briar Patch

Now it is a fun and safe sport route.

 Start on top of the big boulder left of the bolt line. Traverse right to the first bolt at a stance. Make slopey moves up under the bulge to get to the next bolt. Climb under an arching feature and make a difficult stand up move. Clip another through cool eyebrows. Move up towards some suspect rock, most of the bad rock has been cleared away, but still be cautious as more can come down. Clip another bolt and move through this section to the anchors.

Start up in the gully to the left at a horizontal feature. Make the tough starting moves onto this feature. Continue traversing right placing gear until the crack turns upwards. Get some good gear here and make a couple of tough moves up the crack. Follow this over an overlap to the bolted anchor.

A wide crack connoisseurs delight. Don't forget to tape up your ankles and hands! This crack was dug out in 2016 by a group of motivated folks. The upper section could use a little more digging to prevent regrowth.

 The crack starts in the fist size and goes all the way to #6 at the crux. Arm bars and heel toes are the trick to making it up this beast. Throw in a little body English with some humping and hopefully you will make it to the anchors in one piece. The anchors are slightly up and right on the headwall from where this crack finishes.

 You can TR this route by rapping right from Grass Fed to the reddish shuts in the headwall.

Start in a 20 foot, fist-sized crack.  There is a hangerless bolt on the slab above the terminus of the crack which can be slung with a nut.  Transition to slab left, or move right around a mountain laurel onto the slab.  There are several opportunities to place cams on the way to the cold shuts in the headwall.  The climbing is very easy, and so might be an option for getting used to placing gear.  The crack could be 5.3, the slab is very easy.  Easier than any route on Hominid, but with the chance to place gear.

 It leads to a beautiful part of the rock, with good views.  It might also be possible to continue left along the headwall, and top out near the Grass Fed anchor, but I haven't done this.  The name comes from the guidebook.

Upper Shaman is a great cold weather option. The routes are exposed to sun and dry very quick. A good variety of grades and climbing styles.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Shaman Wall