Start on the The Wo Project, but instead of topping out the arete to the right, continue up left, and use good, slopey slots to top the high lip of the boulder. (Edit) after climbing some more v8’s and a v9 I’ve decided to downgrade it from a v9- to a v8. It’s just about the same difficulty as other v8’s I’ve tried. The crux is maybe a v4-5 move which is in line with v8. IMO, I think the wo project should be v8- or v7+ But it’s not my climb so I can’t change it

The Wo Project Left

Chicken Slab

Never Enough Crack

The Fix

Noah's Arete

Chicken Chin Dyno

Chicken Chin Dyno (sit start)

Scramble Boulder

It Takes 5 Guys

Slabby Seconds

The Wo Project

Out and Back

Chicken Chin

Spring Break

Chicken Slab has no crux, it is just a slab.

The hardest part of this is mantel 10 feet up.

This is a fun problem and Noah's first FA.

Start on the obvious jug at head level on the left face of the Chicken Chin Boulder. Using high feet, dyno to the crimp in the dish on the left side of the chicken chin. Top out using a high left foot.

Start on the low jug on the right side of the bulge below the chicken chin. Go to the sloping crimp out and left. Heel hook the starting jug, and work your way around the sloping edge of the bulge to the start of the chicken chin dyno. Finish by climbing the chicken chin dyno. The crux is definitely sticking the move to the starting jug of the dyno.

The front of the boulder is a nice slab with a good crack on the back. There are lots of options, and it is a good warm-up boulder.

Start on two large sidepulls, toe/heel hook on the left starting hold, then reach and cross to a small crimp that's up and to the right of the starting holds. Reach out to the Chicken Chin Dyno start, walk your feet across, then do the Chicken Chin Dyno.Alternate beta: reach right hand up to the small crimp, and rose move to the start of Chicken Chin Dyno or full dyno to the start of Chicken Chin Dyno.

Begin with a tough start position (your right hand in a dished sidepull and your left hand down low on a small, crimpy flake just above knee level) into a left hand move up to a crimp, and climb straight up over the bulge. The crack on the left is off as well as the arete to the right.

The Wo Project involves a series of thin moves on the face moving right to better holds on the edge/topout.

The start is a small crimp for your left hand and a low, sidepull jug on the arete, with a good right foot hold underneath. Bump your right hand to another sidepull on the arete. Stand up, and reach left out to the crimp rail. Match on the rail, and pull up to the right to a big flake (there is a crimp below if needed). Move your left hand up to a crimp on the crack, then top out. The crux is getting the feet set correctly for the flake at the top.

Pulling out of roof is the hardest part on this problem.

Do a big reach out to the left arete. You either can go high for taller people or low. Use some sidepulls closer to the arete for your right hand. The hardest part is finding the crimps to mantel up to the top. This is where you need a spotter, there are some rocks below that will hurt.

There is a 15 foot high, split boulder in the trails behind Tivnan Field (across from Lake Park). All but one of the routes is in the V0-V3 range, then the other is V8+. It is not a bad little spot if you want something quick and close while you're in the Worcester area. In addition, there is a 10 foot high boulder just behind the ball field which has some good moderate routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tivnan Park Boulders