Trad climbers rejoice! Offwidths and chimneys do exist on the East Coast, they're just boulder problems. Climb the chimney on this one to a high and exposed topout above Herr Right.

Herr Center

Nestling

Cave Wave

Rosie

Fisticuffs

Herr Left

Lieback Crack

Herr Right

Herr Left's grade is entirely dependent on height.  If you're under 5'7" it's V3.  If you're over 5'11" it's V6.  V5 seems to be a good compromise

Nestling is an overlooked gem.  Start in the cave/corridor on large rails.  Climb up for a couple of fun moves on large holds and pull around the right arete delicately to reach the lip and mantle.  Be sure not to blow it up high.  This is my favorite V1 at the Stable, a place that is stacked with quality climbs at the V1 grade.

Terrifying to look at, but not all that bad.  The trick is to commit, because if you don't... well, just commit.  Start with your left foot in the seam and your right hand on the crimp in the  middle of the face.  Launch for the lip with both hands, then top it out.

This climbs the steep overhang above and to the left of the roof crack Fisticuffs.  Start on the jug of Fisticuffs. Climb the short finger crack to a horizontal break underneath the overhang. Load up the roof seam with gear and bust a move or two out to the huge horn at the lip. Wall on the left side (that cave wave is located on) is OFF unless you want to bail. Plug in some more gear here (threaded sling and #3 camalot) and pull the lip using the arete. A couple insecure slab moves lead the the top. You can set up a belay off a #1 and #2 camalot.

Fisticuffs is unique to Governor Stables, and diabase rock in general, in that it is a parallel hand and fist jam crack, and on a horizontal roof to boot!  If you like these kind of challenges then you will not be disappointed. 

  This roof crack is down low in a sort of cave opposite of the tall and sweeping face which contains the V6 dyno problem Cave Wave.  Look down and underneath the roof to locate the crack.  It is easy to miss if you are not looking for it. 

  Burrow as far back as you can in to the beginning of the roof crack and start jamming.  After a couple of moves turn the lip to vertical territory.  Once standing on the vertical face, you may step off, of continue upwards on grungy but easy rock to a top out.  Taping may be prudent as the insides of the crack are quite gritty, but taping is not a deal breaker.  The crack is hand as well as fist sized with good, solid jams for hands and feet.

Climb the tall crack that starts wide, goes to a horizontal break, then narrows to a 3 or 4 inch crack which can be liebacked on the right side or jammed securely straight on.  This is one of the nicer easy cracks at the stables.

Tall and proud, this line has a little bit of everything.  Start with easy enough moves utilizing the arete to gain a high crimp, then bust out the crux toward a flat lip.  Don't look down.

Small area containing the ultra classic Herr Left and Herr Right, and a few other problems as well

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Herr Brothers