Super solid slab climb. Technical feet support iffy hands through fun, balancey moves. The crux is an unavoidable set of undercling moves on tricky feet between the 6th and 7th hanger. Belaying in this spot is tricky as the ground is steep and loose and the rock ledge below is steep, so its a good idea to throw in a cam (BD 2) at the obvious leftwards crack as a belay station. Just like everywhere else at the new, first clip is high so we used another cam (BD .3) as a first clip.

Diggie Diggie Doo

Government Overreach

Le Petit Mort

House of Cards

Commitment Issues

You Party Too Much

Dying for a Living

Hers

Sometimes the Wolf

Ventilator Shaft

Red Hot Hoochie Coocher

My Anaconda Don't

Flaming Caterpillars

Mystery Hole

Right of His Crack

(Ra)

Unknown Roof Crack

Tanning Bed

Minnie the Moocher

Sequence of Events

Orchestration For a Dance

Management Wore Masks

Hidie Hidie Ho

Shack Rouster

Cold Calculus

Copper-Colored Transitions

Essence

Solar Power

Deregulation

Brittle Covenants

Pocketing the Profits

Fandango

This would be a useful route to give a intro into "roof climbing into a wide crack".

From the big cave, climb up the easy ramp to the base of the roof crack. The feet Drop away and you have to figure out how to get out to the next bolt. Once clipped then figure how to get your body stood up in vertical portion of the crack. Then it is just easy romping to the anchor.

Quality slab and pocket climbing up to easier but steeper terrain. Start under a short roof with a very low (no stickclip needed) first bolt.

Fun climbing on a flake feature and big holds after you get past the start. Crux near the top just to keep you on your toes. Shares a start with Dying for a Living, stay left at the third bolt.

A moderate and long Route that goes up an improbable stack of rocks.   Each section breaks down often so you can regroup and contemplate but it slows down the pacing.  One of the roof pulls has a rattly block that appears very inviting to use; it doesn't seem like it will stick around, but time will tell.

If this was in a high traffic area, top-ropes would be on it all day.

We all struggle with commitment sometimes. You can stick clip the second bolt from the ledge if you'd like, no judgement.

Fun moderate sport route that starts up a shallow corner/arete feature before moving right up cool incuts to a dirtier finish.

Grumble up the start, then enjoy solid sandstone with good holds. Go straight up at the third bolt, try not to Z clip in a few places. Good addition to the area.

Climb the broken crack system up and slightly right at the top.  The crack varies in size throughout its length.

Start directly below the roof crack to the right of Essence. Make your way up under the roof and then do powerful moves on good fingerlocks to reach the lip. Once established on the face above, step left to the arete (straight up is a variation) and do a delicate boulder problem on sloping holds just below the second roof. Relatively easier climbing one good holds leads to a shared anchor with Orchestration for a Dance.

The first 8-10 feet are still a little crunchy so move carefully but the rest of the rock qualities is quite good.

Climb the wide crack in the corner. This route can be protected with a standard rack of cams, but a #4 Big Bro is a helpful option.

Creative moves off the bat lead to easier climbing to a roof with a strenuous clip, and a pumpy finish. Watch out for some potentially loose blocks, otherwise fun. Shares the same first three bolts as Minnie the Moocher. Head left after the third bolt.

Listed as V-Slot Project in the 2019 edition of New River Rock Volume 1. Will be cool if it cleans up. Start left of the first bolt and traverse into the slot. The awkward/dirty bottom section is worth doing for the cool moves up high.

The most obvious trad route at Cotton Club. Stays dry in a light rain and seeps after a hard one.

The dihedral crack immediately climbers right of ‘His’ route. Hand sized to start; the route could diverge into two routes here but, if you climb up and right, you will encounter some easier moves to a short fist size crack. The route then continues on easier ground moving upward towards a tree. Could finish at the obvious tree immediately above but the moss growth makes the footing difficult and it is easier to traverse right 6 to 10' towards the bolted route (unknown) next to it.

Route: RA

Start on a powder lichen slab, Good edges make the lichen a non-issue.  Pull a tiny roof to reach a ledge below the vertical clean rock.  Pull real rock moves, pass a unique pocket. Clip the last draw and scamper to the anchors.

Low hand-size roof crack left of the obvious dihedral sharing the last 20ft for the finish. Transitions to a flaring chimney.

Find the Spikyy Holly Bush sprouting out of the crack.  Climb this crack to the right of the bush, then follow the crack and right facing corner. (look for the cool pocket)

Reach up to pedestal and figure out the moves and gear to get through this vert section.

You'll reach a ledge and have 1 more roof-pull protected by a bolt.

A few tricky moves off the start followed up by fun climbing up relatively easy terrain. Shared start with Red Hot Hoochie Coocher, go right at the third bolt.

Fun moderate sport route that begins on a slightly bulging slab before moving right to ride up the steeper face just left of the arete.

Stick clip the first bolt and don't get suckered in to the hueco out right. Climb the arete to big moves through the bulge.  Once established on the face above, dance your way up delicate climbing to better edges and then a mellow final third.  Watch out for the tree behind you while cleaning the bottom draw.

A fun arete climb at the far end of Cotton Club. Start on the left side of the arete and weave your way up. It's possible to top out to a comfortable ledge that has a nice view of the river.

Reminiscent of the routes at Kaymoor Slabs area at Endless Wall.  Climb a slabby face with nothing feet for a few moves, trend left a bit, then surmount a more vertical arete.  The anchor clipping jug feels solid, but sounds hollow and has a big white X on it.  The crux is near the top.  Be wary.

You'll likely want to stick clip the first bolt. The first three bolts are thin and hard to read technical moves that trend left towards a crack. Grab a good shake and then pull through the crack onto some broken orange rock.

Start in the wide crack just a couple feet to the right.  Try to find foot holds and crimp on sharp edges for the first bolt or two.  Feels very similar to the Diamond Point route Strike a Scowl.  The climbing difficulty eases as you get closer to the anchor.

Do two low fifth class moves to the top of a 7 ft boulder and pull onto a face with good holds.  Trend left as you go up, following the bolt line and utilizing small dihedrals formed by bulges in the rock to an anchor under a roof.

If you are cleaning on the way down, be mindful as you clean the lowest draw if the belayer is on the boulder and the climber is trolleyed in to clean.  This one is probably better cleaned by a follower going up.

A short face climb that spills out into a 12-foot roof with permadraws.

Start in a left facing corner , clean orange rock will be staring you in the face. Go up the corner then left following bolts. Do some slabbing and then pull roof looking for good holds.   Upper part is just more slabbing. Find out what works.

Start up an easy flake to a high first bolt, moving via more friable flakes to a precarious stance under a roof. Make the crux move over the roof, and cruise up dirtier rock to the anchors.

Be selective moving up the arete just left of a shallow right-facing dihedral.  Transition from delicate footwork to more upper body moves on jugs through slightly overhanging terrain at the top.

Arete route climber’s left of ‘Essence’. Very good route for the first 50’, remaining is easier ground to reach the anchor creating a beautiful scenic finish. Before the low roof section, route is a little wandery but the traverse moves are well below the grade. Pull the roof; immediately after, you’ll hit the slabby crux. There is a powerful alternative to the move left but feels off the intended route.

Technical climbing using a shallow, right facing corner, up to a small roof and a wild move right with blind reaches and really cool pockets. Past the very defined crux the difficulty and quality decrease, but this is a worthy climb just for the first half.

Start in an aesthetic corner with good jams and good feet, then move into a slanting wider crack, and finally scramble up some vegetated ledges to two bolts of face climbing.

This is a nice climb with crack that ranges from tight hands to wide hands plus some face holds. The ledges in the middle detract from the climb a bit but it's still fun and definitely worth doing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cotton Club