Sport route located just left of a chimney. The crux is pulling over the bulge.

Teenage Wasteland (a.k.a. The Bulge)

Hive Mind

Stem-celled

Welcome to Las Cruces

Corn Flakes

Marley Fowat

Black Streak

Shortcut Scramble

Toucan Bob

Serpentine (Sun-Rot Dihedral)

Piton Power

A short and un-inspiring lichen covered slab. Several variations can be climbed from the anchors ranging from 5.4-5.6. Some of them are slightly cleaner than others. for taking a beginner out climbing this route may have some value, but even then it's not going to get a beginner excited about climbing.

this route shares the start with Toucan Bob but stays in the large corner. The rock in the corner is a pale flaky granite with funny undulations. the bolts lead you deep into the corner before you make an awkward exit onto the slab (crux). From the mid-point anchors, the climbing is easier slab climbing (5.7). 

  Bees sometimes take residence in the crack near the crux. Getting stung ups the grade to 5.11...

This climb is located on the southern side of Cueva in an hidden alcove beneath a huge chimney system. This is the same chimney system which forms the route Width of Reason on the north system of Cueva. On this side it starts with a steep but short finger crack. This crack opens up to a short section of chimney climbing before gaining a ledge. Above this ledge is 100m or more of easy (5.3) chimney climbing to gain the summit. If you don't feel like scrambling up the chimney past a few trees and reputed bees, you can rap off a piton just above the steep climbing. 

  A fun route but would be better if it was longer.

The crack system immediately to the left of Piton Power. Slab climbing to gain the crack. At the top of the crack, break right onto the steeper pocketed face and head towards anchors for Piton power.

A full-rope length climb following a nice line up the slab on rock the consistency of corn flakes. If the route ever gets traffic it may clean up, and the rating will likely increase. But for now, jump on this route if you enjoy clinging to hollow flakes and stepping on crumbling nubbins.

Climbs the obvious black streak and crack. The upper section is easier face climbing but on chossier rock. The crux is either getting into the crack, or the initial thin face moves.

This pitch can be done roped or unroped. I personaly think it is a 4th class scramble but some might want to place a cam or two. To get to the top stay in the wide crack system all the way to the top (don't turn right into the harder steeper cack near the middle).

Located on the same slab as Piton Power, this climb starts on the far right-hand side of the slab and follows the left-tending crack over to the anchors of Piton Power. 

  The rock is very crumbly for the first half of this climb which is the harder half. While this route offers an alternative and slightly longer climb than  Piton Power, the climbing is inferior.

This crack system is located about 100 yds west of the "Hermits Cave" on a shallow black dihedral which leads up to the left end of a large grassy ledge. 

  Thrash your way through desert thorns to get to the bouldery start. This boulder problem is the most difficult climbing of the route, and has an awkward fall-zone, even if you have a crash-pad. Above the start continue up the shallow black dihedral (~5.9). The rock quality gets worse the higher you climb. The crack peters out at an old (and untrustworthy in my opinion) 1/4" bolt. You can set up a belay here with Trad gear. Beware though, the natural belay stance is on top of a large and possibly unstable rock protrusion. The grassy ledge to the right does not offer many options for setting up a good anchor. 

  The second pitch traverses over to the grassy ledge and up a blackened drainage(~5.9). Surprisingly solid protection is found in the crack up this drainage, but there is also some very rotten rock.    

  Overall this route is a fun excursion on a beautiful wall. The suspect rock quality is offset with good protection and interesting climbing.

This route is on a sunny slab on the south side of la Cueva, near a few sport routes. It climbs directly up the face just to the right of a small crack system.

The south facing sunny side of La cueva is the first face you notice when driving into the area. It probably will be warm even on the coldest Southern new Mexico day.A handful of sport routes are located on this side. The broad slabs also make for a good beginners area.There is a sign prohibiting dogs from the trail to this side of La Cueva.

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunny Side