Pitch 1: (5.8) Start on the right side of chimney and move up the pillar to a comfortable belay.

Pitch 2: (5.10b) Move right a couple feet on the ledge, make a tricky move off the ledge with high feet and sloped holds (trust is key). Continue up along the face through crimps and bulges.

Pitch 3: (5.10b) More of the same, a little steeper.

Pitch 4: (need beta here)

Super 8

Original Sin

Home Boys on Soy

Shotgun Wedding

Pitch 1: (5.8)  Start at base of left facing chimney. The chimney is fairly crumbly. It is often used to gain the face below the first bolt. Climb face up bolt line to anchors below bulge. (60ft)

Pitch 2: (5.10d) This pitch is excellent. The rock is overhanging with large holds. Doesn't feel like 10d, but that is what Central Montana Rock puts it at. It is very airy. Ends with slab. (95ft)

Pitch 3: (5.10d) "Grip through steep crimps to easier slabs and gain a unique chert-filled face". Ends at right facing corner. (95ft)

The climbing off the ground is a little spicy. If you have a stick clip you won't even notice, but if you are doing "lead all the way", you will certainly ponder the moves a bit more. Not hard for the grade, but it does require a commitment to working with what you have available. This wall had some loose rock on the start in the past, but is pretty clean now. The climb starts under the bird's beak, climbing around the tip of the beak.

Pitch 1 (5.10c) Climb up and right through the tip of the bird's beak. (60ft)

Pitch 2 (5.10d) Angle up and right gaining a steep corner that deposits you on a tricky slab that keeps you at to a ledge with chains. (95 ft)

Descent: Two single or one double rope rappel.

Moderate through the first three pitches. Off the ground feels tricky as you get used to the chert. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with minimal drag (makes for faster ascent). The next couple pitches require gear for protection (sport climbers beware).

Pitch 1:  (5.9) Start left of the birdhead feature on the steep face. Work you way up the "bulletproof" face to belay ledge. (65 feet, 6 bolts)

Pitch 2: (5.9+) From ledge pull over bulge onto steep slab and pull through several more gritty sections to a broken corner. Move up corner to v-shaped ledge. (95ft, 13 bolts). (If combining, mind the bolt number!)

Pitch 3: (5.9) Layback up a very cool and steep corner for a few bolts and then step left on another off vertical, chert fortified face. (85ft, bolts)

Pitch 4: (5.11a) Slap left and work left to a gut churning bulge mostly on jugs. Haul through a thin roof move to easier short section (5.9) that takes gear. (95ft, medium gear, 9 bolts)

Pitch 5: (5.8+) Jam straight up a steep hand to finger-sized crack past one bolt and end on top of a small tower. (65ft, 1 bolt, medium gear)

Pitch 6: (5.10) Move up and slightly left past bolts through a small bulge. Make it as hard as you want here then move left after bulge to a ledge at the top of a large chimney. (75ft, 8 bolts and medium gear).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Birdhead Buttress