This is a beautiful looking tower as seen from I-70.  It is also a beautiful looking tower as seen from the south.  However, looks can be deceiving, and the western view is not as impressive.  However, the climbing is very engaging, the upper section very runout, and by the time you get back to terra firma, you will have a good sense of accomplishment.

Start up a dusty dihedral on the northwest side of the formation.  Climb through crumbly rock to a great crack.  This leads to the formation's shoulder.  Oddly, there is a two bolt, glued-in anchor at this point (with one of the biggest quicklinks I have ever seen.)  Climb to the drilled angle above, traverse right to the upper shoulder, and climb unprotected 5.4 to the summit (this is the R section.)  A fall at this point would be terrible, the climbing is easy, but the rock is suspect in places.  Use your mountaineering judgment and gentle technique on this final section.

Descent:  Rap from two drilled angles.

Of note:  The summit register had four names in it (two ascents?!) in 15 years.  I find this hard to believe, but anyway, after I added my name and comments, as I attempted to screw the lid back in place, it cracked and broke in my hands.  I have it now, but will return it either to the summit block or leave it hanging somewhere on the beginning of the route, so that a future ascent party can re-establish it.  I will do this the next time I pass that way.

Phantom Spire

Unknown Fat Tower

Unknown Skinny Tower

Karma's Castle in the Air

This is a well seen tower from many places in the south central swell.  It overlooks Reds Canyon.

Start on the southwest side of the formation and follow the nice looking crack past a potentially loose block continuing up the nice crack up to a ledge.  Climb up through a loose section to a chimney, past a bolt to the top.

This is 2 star climbing with a 4 star location... my thoughts?  Three star climb.

Descent: Rap from two bolts, I believe two ropes are needed.  (I used two 50m ropes.)

Unknown Fat Tower is the eastern fatter tower of the two towers just north of the San Rafael Knob.

From the shorter north side of the tower, scramble easily up a low angle face to where the tower steepens.  There is an ammo can filled with trinkets here - maybe a geocache?  Clip a bad bolt - it looks like a hardware store 1/4" wedge bolt but I did add a hanger to it - and climb to a notch that forms a chimney system between the two summits.  Do some wild 5.7 stemming between the summits with really questionable protection to the summit.  If you do fall, try to pitch off the other side of the tower since the gear is terrible.

Unknown Skinny Tower is the western skinnier tower of the two towers just north of the San Rafael Knob.

Climb a delicate face to a low angle ramp to an arete to the summit.  Really fun face climbing on rock that is better than it looks.  Don't fall on the upper arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in San Rafael Knob