This is a very short, but fun fingercrack.  From the parking lot for Long John's Tower, walk to the right as if trying to walk around the backside.  The tallest boulder in the area has several problems on it ranging from V1-V3.  Once you see this boulder, look to the left to locate the fingercrack.

Short 5.9 BP Crack

Unknown Face

Behind Blue Eyes

Tall 5.9 BP

Jordan's Seam

Jay's Got Wood

Finnigan's Ladder

Barn Sour

The Relocation Roof

This boulder problem is located directly downhill from the

Spectraman

and climbs the roof crack formed by the two boulders.  Start on the right side of the roof in a sit down start (if facing the cliff)and work your way out the crack.

I am not sure if this route has been done before, but I talked to Davin Bagdonas who wrote the bouldering guidebook last summer and he thought it hadn't been done before.  It's such an obvious problem, I thought someone would have done it.  Either way, it's a good route, probably 5.11+, comparable to the Banana Hammock.

Start on some good incuts with small feet, and make your way up through a lightly vegetated, curving crack to the top. Be careful, there’s a large piece of rock in the crack that wobbles. I didn’t use it at all though.

The descent is to downclimb the problem.

This is an unusual route for Vedauwoo.  It has very thin liebacking with smears for the feet.  Very insecure!  The gear is adequete, but the route is a little spicy.

Park as if climbing at Long John's Tower and walk around to the back side.  Once you pass between the boulders leading to the opposite side, this tall handcrack will appear right next to the main formation.  Pad this thing well, because a fall would probably take you through the push the pad is resting on in the picture for an extra few feet to the ground.  It is also very easy to scramble up to the right of the crack to build an anchor if you wanted to TR it.

Again, not sure if this boulder problem has been done before, but after talking to Bagdonas (guidebook author) I'm pretty sure it hasn't.  Over the summer, Jordan Wood and I established over 20 problems in the area, and I've only put the better ones online here.  If you want the full list, let me know.

Directly behind the base of the route

The Big House

on John's Tower is this boulder.  Climb the seam and top out.

If walking on the backside of John's Tower and heading to The Heap (from the left of The Heap) is this cool roof crack problem.  It is near the main rock formation and there's a faint trail from people wandering around heading to The Heap.

Start in the back of the roof on handjams and work your way through the roof to flip the crux lip.

Tom can give this route its real name.  The name I gave it came from the sandbagging I got.  I was under the impression that the route was around 5.10, and I wanted a warm-up the morning I did it.  Right off the bat it's in your face.  Start on good holds and decipher the moves necessary to establish your feet on those holds.  Follow the intrusion to the top.  5.10...really!?  After the distinct crux at the bottom, the rest of the climb decreases in difficulty and is really enjoyable.

Barn Sour is a fun warm-up for the area if you plan to do other routes such as

Behind Blue Eyes

,

Finnigan's Ladder

, or

Spectreman

. Not far from

Spectreman

, it just might be worth a visit. The route starts on tight hands, hands, and potentially a fist.

Description

Protection

Routes in Upper Blair Boulder Problems