This is an exquisite route that deserves more traffic to keep it clean! Now mostly bolt protected (less intimidating), it ascends an obvious, overhanging corner above the Double Dutch ledge. Despite the extra bolt, it remains a bold lead. Best linked with Double Dutch Right.

 From the ledge, start up a short right trending crack (pro?) to a minor stance. From this stance, the angle kicks back (don't fall!), and you can slot in a perfect nut before blasting into the hard moves. Get your crimping on as you work through a bouldery sequence to a good hold and your first bolt. The tribulations continue through a series of lunges and a tricky hand-and-foot sequence into an alcove, then up to a detached-but-solid flake hold and a rest at the new bolt. The angle kicks back even more here as the dihedral tightens, with potential for small cam pro. Work your way up into it, clip the last bolt, and make the proud final moves on jugs to the anchor.

Trauma Center

Scott Free

Save the Whales

Pillow Talk

Spectrum

Double Dutch Left

Mixin' It Up

Catharsis full

Full Spank Mode

Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp

Double Dutch Right

Superstrings

Primary Gobbler

Lovebug Arete

Catharsis P1

Dr. Opus Goes Power Lunging

Ant Abuse

Whatever Blows Your Skirt Up

Hungry for Duress

Lost in the Delta Neighborhood

Sisters of the Road

Subway to Venus

Sultans of Swing

Double Dutch Scotty

Rising Desperation

Time to Kill

Scotty Hits the Warp Drive

Beam Me Up, Mr. Scott

Climb Double Dutch Right (5.6) to its belay ledge and then finish up the fist-size crack to the anchors for Subway to Venus.

Fine, I’ll add it! (Hahaha)    Fire up the overhanging wall below the rising desperation anchors. Burly moves lead to a thin Crux, then yell really loud and huck—if you stick, you’re a star.

A short route, but packs a punch. Clammer up to the ledge at the base of the crack. Easy climbing quickly steepens to a wide crux as you jam your way through and up to the anchor.

A popular and fun little climb on a clean section of rock. Several minor cruxes lead to a powerful reach above the last bolt. Stepping right in to the Ant Abuse dihedral at the last bolt reduces the grade and the fun.

Technical and a bit reachy. Work your way up the back of the alcove, making a tricky move left to exit the roof on mediocre feet. Find a stance and clip the first bolt. Exhale. A few more powerful moves brings you to a small shelf. Head up and left to the lower anchor. For full value, step right from the anchor and continue up the arete through two more bolts to arrive on a higher ledge with bolted anchor. Extensions adds ~30 feet.

Begin just right of Sultan's of Swing and climb easy blocks through ledges for the first two bolts.  Get onto a large ledge above the second bolt and commit left, out onto the face.  Climb the short dihedral section, placing a #4 metolius and a #1 metolius (you can also place a small nut before committing to the face off the ledge).  A neato, but tricky mantle gets you onto the Double Dutch Ledge and to the anchors.  A super dooper double dutch pitch!

Follow the obvious crack up and left from the Superstrings anchor. Moderate climbing leads to a very well protected crux pulling the bulge. Mostly a one-sequence-wonder but what a sequence it is!

 Enjoy moderate climbing after the crux to a bolted anchor and an exposed lower off where you realize just how steep the route really was.

A serious lead on small gear up the left leaning crack after the 5.9 approach pitch. Should be solid at onsighting 5.11 on gear before attempting ground up.

One of the best routes at the crag! Begin up the start for Sisters of the Road on easy terrain (somewhat loose), clip a bolt, then traverse right around the arete. Clip the second bolt and go straight up the arete doing a series of lock-offs on small edges. Careful here, kinda sporty - (you could climb to a ledge right and bypass these moves, but it's not the route).

 After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. A harder alternate finish called Full Wank Mode (Phillip Hranicka, year?) cuts right here, engaging the cool, orange face. Otherwise stay in the dihedral. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.

 It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.

A fairly committing lead, Mr Noodle Arm has one significant loose block you pull on at mid-height and then step on, and another just above that you must grapple with. It will leave you questioning gravity - I have no idea how it is even attached...moss-glue maybe?

 The climbing is fun and involves a little bit of everything from awesome finger locks to crimping, from steep to slab, and the gear is good, but the rock is, um, well, rocky at times. Just tread lightly. Same anchor as Time to Kill.

 R because of the big block that hums to you when you step or pull on it.

Right facing dihedral that leads to the prominent offwidth of Primary Gobbler. Start with easy climbing up broken ledges to a stance at the base of the arching crack. Place good pro and follow hand jams and solid feet to an easy mantel onto Double Dutch Ledge.

This is a stout sport route that takes you into some good crimping territory and a sweet 100% pure bouldering move in the middle. That's the crux, but the route doesn't let up just yet.

Begin up Arm Forces (10d, some small nuts and up to #3 metolius), climbing to the amazing Picnic Lunch Ledge. From here, clip the first bolt on the face and then step out into space, staying close to the arete while using crimps on the headwall. Follow 3 bolts until you merge with Full Spank Mode at the last bolt. Amazing position, spectacular rock and bodacious moves! One of the best routes in Portland.

First pitch of Catharsis. Follow bolts up the slightly overhanging prow towards the high first bolt. Climb over large edges to a stance below the overhang and clip. Use cracks and jugs to mount the face, then continue reaching and pulling to the anchor ledge. This anchor is shared with the first pitch of Aerial Display (5.8) and Superstrings (10c).

 You can step out right to another anchor and continue up Mixin' It Up (10b) or go for the full Catharsis experience (11+).

Edge your way up the mostly smooth face to a high first bolt. A few feet higher a committing move left to the steep arete leads to sporty climbing on good holds up the spine to a sloping ledge. Reach up and plug some thin gear before firing the reachy and powerful crux.

Short diagonal finger crack leads to easier climbing into a dihedral. Follow the dihedral up till you reach an overhung section. Pull through this crux to finish it off.

This route is comparable by most measures- height, difficulty, quality- to its nearby neighbor, Ant Abuse. The advantage of it having a bolt at its crux is possibly offset by it's heads-up climbing off the ground to the first bomber protection. After that it takes gear nicely where it's wanted most.

Climb a thin crack and face holds through a scruffy, bulgy overhang to the left of Beam me up, Mr. Scott. Mostly finger-sized gear.

Limited gear placements...some sections are questionable for pro. Often dirty. Awesome stemming spot in the middle! You could lead up Superstrings and use the chain anchor to toprope this one

Climb up a crack in a dihedral then move left into another crack below a pod. Pull into and through the pod and then get through a tricky move just below all the guano/bird droppings. Pin was gone as of Dec 2017.

An insanely unrelenting arete that pulls through micro crimps, wild slaps, and tension lie-backs - Subway to Venus packs a big punch in a really short pitch.  Begin off the anchors for Double Dutch Left (you can clip the first bolt from the ledge), then get to the best hold on the route (a one-pad edge) to clip the second bolt and start pulling hard.  This route could either be the hardest 5.12a in all of Oregon, or a few grades harder ;) The 5.12 grade given allows you to pick whatever letter grade you want to fill in after!  Fun, hard, short.

A very runout start up a minor corner with positive edges brings you to a stance on a sloping ledge. Clip the first bolt and step left - don't get sucked up the featureless groove on the right. Very small edges and tip-toeing gets you the flake. Climb this and make a hard pull on top of it. From here, join Scotty Hits the Warp Drive and climb the left-trending hand crack to another stance, and then back right up the final layback crack to the anchor ledge.

This is a combination of two routes which is the best and most intuitive way to climb either. Start as for Double Dutch Left, climbing the featured face past a couple bolts to a left-trending crack on low-angle rock. Instead of stepping right at the low first anchor, step left to the stance and jam up the left-trending hand crack. Just below another ledge, make an obvious traverse right into an obtuse corner. Bust up the layback crack to the anchor ledge.

Follows a chunky broken crack. Cruise up the first jugs until you come to an overhanging block. Pro is thin and reachy to place. Pull the cruxy move and step up to the bomber jug up high. Move left onto the ledge then continue up an easier but slightly runout section. Once you get to the ledge you can make a tenuous leftward traverse to the Scott Free anchor or (recommended) step right and punch it through the overhanging hand crack.

A really straight forward route by basalt standards that is fun and well protected.  Begin up the left side of the arete on good holds, clip the first bolt, then do some reaches between ledges.  At the third bolt, traverse left via edges and get under the short flared crack in the roof.  A short, powerful boulder problem takes you to a jug.  If you yell, "crimpa crimpa," letting your voice get real high on the "a" you will definitely hit the jug, but no guarantees after that.  Super!

Route is finishing variation to Double Dutch Scotty. From the second anchor ledge, pull through an overhang and clip the chains on the significantly overhung rock which may be partially detached.

If this sweet line weren't situated next to Scott Free, it'd have a whole lot more positive press.

 Begin up the steep face on holds that look like great incut jugs.  Some are, some aren't.  The first three bolts are surprisingly strenuous.  Get a shake on the ledge, place some pro, and fire a cool technical crux.  Keep your head, fight through some more pump and maybe put in another piece to protect the last couple moves between the last bolt and the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (4) Main Wall