Definitely better than it looks.  Start up easy terrain and through casual overhang to a stance.  Continue up steeper rock to finish in a short crack (crux).

Casper Says Boo

Dyno Pleas (1st pitch) linked to Uber Allies

Eat at the Wye

Insistent Irony

Arapiles Please

Look Who's Pulling

Final Jeopardy

More Studly Than Puddly

This is the best full cliff length link up at Rainbow Ledge. Dyno Pleas starts off with a hard little dynamic move (tough snag, PJ would say) and continues up 5.11 minus terrain until you reach the anchor. At the anchor you have the option to stop or keep on going to the top of the cliff via the route Uber Allies, which is another 40 feet to the top. I think linking the two into 1 pitch is the way to go. If linking with Uber Allies, clip one of the hangers as pro and continue up the clean white rock trending towards the arete.

Climb the wide crack at the beginning and head up the undulating face. Easy, fun climbing takes you to a thin crack where you reach the crux. Place some gear and figure out how to reach the next good horizontal. Finish up at new anchors perched on the arete.

Climb the steep, slabby face past three bolts to anchors or on up to the Rainbow Ledge.  Really nice slab moves with a good rest in the middle.  You can get a thin piece of gear (I used a #3 stopper) in a horizontal before the first bolt to make you feel better making those first steep moves.  Great line!

Start with easy climbing and tackle the early crux. The crux is a big stand-up move off of high feet and poor hands. The crux is much harder in higher temperatures. Rest up after the big move and tackle the sequential section above. The bolts are a bit more spaced and the climbing is tricky if there is no chalk to guide you. Overall a really fun route that may be frustrating if you keep hesitating on the stand-up crux!

Climb up the crack and shallow left facing corner to reach the overhang.  Diagonal up and left to reach the shuts.  Really good holds, but move quickly to avoid the pump in the overhanging section.  Look Who's Crimping is an excellent extension from the anchors (5.10d, 3 bolts) to create a longer route.

Final Jeopardy begins with an attractive enough piece of wavy, undulating, multicolored steep stone, that appears to go past 4 bolts before reaching a large ledge. Untouched by chalk the route looks to be a completely overlooked classic. That might be the case if the route neded on the ledge, and one was willing to overlooked the bird crap loaded ledge.  However, the next 3 bolts past the rubble strewn ledge journey though questionable stone before terminating on completly lichen covered rock.

The crux is in the first couple of bolts. Read the beta correctly and this one comes easy. Climb up a face on some thinner holds to gain good ledges to the chains, the route climbs a right facing flake halfway up. The route climbs good rock, unlike its partner on the left where two holds have busted off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 09. Rainbow Ledge Area