Start as for Nose Over Your Toes, mantling up to a bolt. Reach the long, rising overhang and traverse left under it, placing gear under it when possible and clipping a couple of bolts just above it. (Use long slings, or you will hate the rope drag.) Step left to the bolted anchor of Dr. Strangelove (just above an obvious flake); belay and rappel from here, or climb straight up a runout, easy slab to the pine tree above.

Girdle Traverse

How Do You Want Your Eggs

Ant In My Pants

Flowering Hominid (aka Lily)

Monkeys on Main

Nose Over Your Toes (aka Lucy)

Climb straight up past a very generous number of bolts up some featured slab to a 2 bolt anchor. Shares anchors with Nose Over Your Toes

 Good first sport lead for anyone

Pad up to the 1st bolt. Make a kind of a high step move through a couple of moves that turn out to be easier than they look like. Clip the second bolt and then onto slightly easier ground to bolt 3. Make a bit of a run on easy ground angling up and left to the corner/roof. 

 Clip bolt 4 and then step up right through the corner. There is a loose flake here that is the obvious hand hold so try not to pull on it. After you stand up on the roof you can clip another bolt. Run it out on easy ground through one more bolt to the bolted anchor

 Rope ends just reach the ground so tie knots in the ends of the rope.

Climb up past three bolts and then stand up and clip the 4th bolt at the roof. Sit here for awhile trying to figure out how in the heck you are suppose to make this ridiculous mantle move over the roof. If you eventually give up then yard on the bolt or do the mantle in style. Either way slab up past 5 more bolts over some gritty rock to an anchor

 This route is no harder than 5.8 A0 if you aid through the roof, so hop on it

Good footholds lead to the first bolt, then it gets thinner. You climb basically straight up toward bolt 2.  After bolt 2, follow the obvious quartz dike up and left into a water streak. Continue up the water streak past another bolt to the overlap. You can get trad gear (optional) under the overlap where it's obvious. The last bolt is over the lip, protecting a cool step up move. We used the belay anchors on How Do You Want Your Eggs,

Dive through the trees a little to find the start of the route. Climb up past one bolt and take the easy way through the roof by stepping up on the rock to the right. Slab up past a bunch more bolts to the anchor. Shares anchors with Beginner Route

This is a lower angled slab that has some sport routes. A great location for beginners to learn to lead or to warmup. This was first developed by Jared Hancock and Brad Caldwell as a top rope site. A top rope anchor was added by them and most of the routes were TR'ed on the right side in the 5.4-5.6 range. The area name comes from their daughters names. With permission, the top rope routes were turned into beginner lead routes. Additional routes were added to the left in the slightly harder range.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Flowering Hominid Wall