A few difficult and powerful moves with bad feet leads into Left of Lloyd's Stand. Start sitting and move up and left to a decent crimp match before moving into Left of Lloyd's Stand.

This Sporting Life (aka, Left of Lloyd's Sit)

Primordial Soup

This or That

Lloyd's (Crack)

Lloyd's (Crack) Sit

The OverHang

Left of Left of Lloyd's

Boneyards Dyno

Left of Lloyd's

Spider Tracks

Nanhole

Finger Hole

Slab

My Head Kissed The Ground

At the far left of the Lloyd's/Left of Lloyd's face (immediately at the left of entering into the Boneyards) is an easy face/good warm-up.

The Minnesota State Parks Service requests that climbers do not climb inside of potholes, which would include this route. This climb additionally has the potential of you slipping into an unpleasent algae-laden pool. This climb is included for historical purposes. Traverse out a good jug rail without feet, and make a hard reach up into the crack. Top out.

Great beginner problem. bad feet with ok hands. 1 move wonder to a big slopey horn.

This classic route requires awkard and powerful underclinging/sidepulling straight up the wide crack flake, into some deadpoints between good holds. For many folks, the first move can be the crux, and a pad or three is often required to help get off the ground. The true finish goes to the left of the "bowl"/scoop, which is the finish of Spider Tracks.

Bad feet and powerfully awkward moves add significant difficulty to the classic Lloyd's crack, without necessarily adding classic movement. For the local climber, "it's H and H... Hard, and here."

Start underneath the overhanging rock, work your way up to the over hang, and then reach for the "secret" pocket to carry you out of the roof

This short power problem is THE classic hard route at Taylors Falls, along with the Cave Traverse. Stand start at a good left hand gaston edge, and a right undercling, with glassy feet. A thin undercling leads to a difficult deadpoint into a three finger pod, and a big move up right to a sloper. A good, thin foothold recently broke on this climb, making the deadpoint move more difficult, but appears still do-able. The old grade was V11, the new grade is yet to be determined. Expect it to be V11-V12. Few repeats to date.

Start on good edges and move up and left into a right-facing undercling-sidepull with bad feet. Make a big reach left into a pocket. Some powerful moves on opposing slopers lead to the topout, through the groove.

Move up the face on small crimps with or without the mono pocket, through some slopey holds to good holds at the top.

Start by placing your finger in the hole (usually wet) and your left hand on the corner jug, proceed straight up to a thin crimp, and then slopers

Follow the angled finger crack, and then commit to smearing on the face to reach up to a nice jug. The crux is in trusting your feet to stick when you reach up to the next hold after the finger crack

Sit Start.  Feet to the left, double up hands. Reach back and traverse underneath. Hook Heel, and Reach up to Jug. Top Out.

A popular spot for tourists, there are a few excellent classics in the Boneyards, including one of the most difficult established problems in the Midwest, the sit-down start to Left Of Lloyds, named "The Sporting Life" (V12). Other classics include Nanhole (V1), Spider Tracks (V3) and a handful of other nice easier problems.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Boneyards