The Wizard

Boschanova

Asleep at the Wheel

Three bolts protect this short face which can be climbed along the dihedral (right of the bolts, easier), or up past the first bolt to the left, sticking along the arete (much harder, opposing foot tensioned side pulls to prevent barn-dooring). A small, questionable cam (0.1) can prevent you from sliding off the deck if you blow the first bolt. 

 Be prepared for a bit of debauchery to build an anchor in the crack behind/beside a sharp and thorny bush (cams at 2 and 3). 

This climb and the moves are a lot better than they look and the rock quality is actually very good.

Just a few good routes up this sweet formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wizard Wall