Climb up a large flake, clip a bolt and traverse right around a roof.  The climbing becomes much easier after the first third of the climb.

Terra Nova

Spirit Bear

Left then Right

Tunnel Vision

Lost and Found

Lazy Daze

Skyrat

Crumbcake

Unknown

Crinoid Process

Redtail

Shark Crack

Black Diamond

Tunnel Cake

This climb ascends a hand/fist crack. The bottom ten feet is a little crumbly, but the climbing above is fun, with good jams.

Interesting and balancy face climbing while protecting the thin crack system. The face to the left can also be toproped off the same anchors.

Step up on a short slab, clip a bolt and climb up and left (the crux) to a crack.  Follow the crack to a ledge, clip another bolt and follow the weakness right to the anchor.  Place extra protection in the shallow limestone cracks.   The anchor provides access to a TR (5.10), through the huecos, to the right of the route.

generally vertical climbing, see internet link. 

vainokodas.com/climbing/nmr…

The crux is near the end of the climb after the bolt.  Be sure to place adequate gear at the start and finish of the climb.

This is a good beginning trad lead,  The hardest moves are nearer the ground but there is no specific crux.

The crux is near the bottom of the route.

A fun TR with nice flow off the Tunnel Cake anchors on the face. Follow the large dip to the left then the flakes right and straight up. The move to the right halfway up may be a bit trickier if your fingers don't fit the undercling. As mentioned in the Tunnel Cake description, follow the obvious right weaknesses for another "easier 10."

Climb up and right clipping bolts then climb up a crack to the anchors.

This climb ascends the right trending smiley faced groove and up the overhanging headwall. Sustained and strenuous right off the ground. The only rest is on the ledge below the headwall.  

  The large chockstone on the headwall appears firmly lodged, and has been yarded on many times.

Sustained laybacking up a sharp flake system.

Climb over the obvious diamond shaped stone covered in black lichen and trend up and left to the same anchors as Shark Crack. Balancy face moves on crimps and thin fingers.

The right to left crack system is easy and provides a good approach to two TRs to the left.  The TRs are easier 10s and follow separate left and right weaknesses.

This area features 35-45' tall climbs on moderate quality limestone. All routes have bolted anchors, but all require gear placement unless otherwise noted. The routes are generally sustained and the rock is sharp.    

  The best season for this northwest facing cliff is summer mornings(shade until ~2:00 p.m.) or spring/fall afternoons (late afternoon sun). This area provides a convenient opportunity for a half day of climbing in close proximity to Albuquerque with the opportunity for gear leads.  

  The view from the crag is beautiful. You will generally see few people, mostly a few local residents walking their dogs.  

  The minimum equipment for this area is a 90' gym rope, 8-10 draws, and a half rack (single set cams and nuts). Gear is generally medium to small, and sometimes tricky. 

  This crag is in the wilderness boundary. All bolts were hand drilled. Please observe a wilderness ethic if establishing new routes.  

  There is limited opportunity to safely set top ropes (the top is loaded with rocks on a steep slope and many trees have died due to bark beetle). Unless noted in the route description as safe to set a top rope - leading is recommended.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tunnel Springs