This is an ultra steep pocket climb leading to a strenuous undercling sequence just before the lip. Then a devious boulder problem guards passage to the headwall above. One of the hardest route in the Santa Monica Mountains.

Kamikaze

Cosmopolitan

[Redacted]

No Remorse

Hijacked

Zero

Crash and Burn

Ruckus

Climb the 1st 4 bolts of "Kamikaze"  and then cut left across the lip of the roof, passing one independent bolt to join "The Gimp" at its 3rd bolt. A link-up.

Start Kamikaze and after 5 bolts tread right into No Remorse. Finish on No Remorse anchors.

Climb past rounded jugs to a sequential roof, and finally through a powerful headwall section. There is an optional sit start that ups the ante.

Start up the slightly overhung pedestal and then climb up through the roof using underclings, toe cams, heel and toe hooks, kneebars and whatever else works. A the lip catch a quick shake and continue up the headwall passing the final challenge to the anchors.

Furthest route on the right side of Kamikaze Cave. Starts on the mound. Note a jug broke off between the 2nd and 3rd bolt(1st and 2nd prehung bolts) which allowed you to clip above your head. Now you have to power through a series of painful slaps starting off a mono. Then you move out of the roof and finally clip underneath you for the 3rd bolt. I marked this route as 12b as per the original rating but I feel that it might be in the 12c/d range with the broken hold. Fun moves coming out of the cave.

Steep jugs - what more could you ask for? Maybe a "how bad do you want it?" move at the end? Extremely popular.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Kamikaze Cave