Wicker Man can be found on the south-facing corner to the west of the Keyhole.  The corner has two overhangs.  Start the climb directly below the lower overhang, climbing through the overhang.  After climbing past the overhang move right onto the face shared by King's Corner (rt# 60).  It's a bit of a squeeze between the rock and the tree.  Climb up the face on fingertip cracks up to the pinnacle above.

Wicker Man

Earnings Summary

King's Corner

No Rest For the Wicked

Goodbye Youth

Seventh Buttress  5

Sure Shot

Easy Street

Blue Slab

Cookie Cutter Direct

Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster)

Cat Walk

Seventh Buttress  6

West Michigan

Mental Block

Seventh Buttress  5-1/2

Kenosis

Red Slab

Hard Times

Innocence

Crimps and Misdemeanors

Puffs Plus

Chockstone Chimney

Left Face of TM Overhang

Archeopteryx

Seventh Buttress  4

Seventh Buttress  2

Loco Head

TM Overhang

Seventh Buttress  1

Cat Fight

Archway Cookie

Dippy Diagonal

Congestion Chimney

Seventh Buttress  3

Microwave Dinner

Cookie Cutter

Mindless Dribble

Climb first portion of Dippy Diagonal.  At ledge climb just a few feet more of DD then start climbing rightwards and upwards into parallel crack line up into alcove and through roofish thing.  Climbing is a full letter grade harder then DD and a full letter grade more tricky as well.   Pro placements a noticably harder to find and place but they are there and good.  The moves to get onto the slabish thing at the bottom of the alcove are the crux for sure.

Earnings Summary is located on the south facing corner of the Red Slab Buttress.  Climb corner up to the top of the Red Slab.

Start up route #59 in the guide (Hard Times) and at 15 foot mark climb left across face to reach arete and large holds. This traverse is the crux by far and is very tricky and a bit scary (placing the pro requires reaching blindly to the left). Climb up into hanging crack just right of the arete and ascend it using edges or pure fist jamming or a combination of both.  Follow the arete above to the top utilizing slopers and strange angled grips along the arete and finally a few right stems onto edges on the right at top.  Tops out on funky little isolated summit that is hard to rig a straight forward top anchor on...  You need to think about this one and rig accordingly.  Getting off this summit requires a little downclimb off the short backside...

No Rest For the Wicked is located above the Seventh Buttress near the west end of the Major Mass of the Doorway Rocks.  To access it, either climb one of the easy routes of the Seventh Buttress or go around the west side of the Seventh Buttress and scramble up 4th class terrain to the base of No Rest For the Wicked. 

  The route ascends a vertical face on small fingertip ledges that are part of a right-leaning diagonal crack.  There is a good sized tree just to the right of the base of the climb.

Crack and small overhang to the right of the route "Mindless Dribble".  This climb climbs out of gully marked "ACCESS" on on page 149 diagram of CGTDL 3rd Edition on the wall making up the right side as one is decending.  Varied and decent protection.  There is a neat sqaure block sticking out at the crux (which consists of high stepping up into upper flare with a finger crack at the back).

Seventh Buttress #5 (route 95) Route 95 climbs the west-facing crack and inside corner of the southwest wall of the Seventh Buttress.

Sure Shot is found to the left of Kenosis on the blocky buttress.  Climb up using larger holds, following the ridge of the buttress.

An obvious block-filled chimney on the east end of the lower Major Mass.

 This climb is notable not because it's a great climb, but because it's the easiest route from the bottom of the lower tier to the platform south of the Keyhole. (You can get to that platform from above, and probably more safely too, but it means hiking around the east side, up the gully to the ledge between the upper and lower tier, and then scramble back down to the platform.) From this platform you can set anchors for Stettner's overhang, or scramble up some blocks to Keyhole Chimney, or to the top of some Hammer routes.

 This is a named climb in Swartling/Mayer but not mentioned in Knower.

The Blue Slab is located on the buttress just west of the Archway Buttress.  To climb, scramble up to the ledge with the pine tree.  From here, ascend the staircase up to another large ledge.  Stop here, or continue to the top on harder rock.

At roof where Cookie Cutter moves left, go straight up middle of the headwall.  Big moves get you over the two roofs with jugs waiting at the top.     Not listed in guidebook.    There was a large block in the middle of the wall, but it broke in my arms and now there are two small, but nice crimps.

Cat Walk starts in the inside corner where the Seventh Buttress and the adjacent wall meet.  Use the crack in the corner (large gear) to get to a small ledge system that traverse left across the face.  Move carefully to the left outside corner, finding a small, shallow piece of gear along the way.  Finish by moving up to "No Rest For the Wicked" or "Archeopteryx."

Seventh Buttress #6 climbs the left prominent feature on the southwest wall of the Seventh Buttress.  Climb up using horizontal cracks.

West Michigan is located on the western corner left of the Blue Slab (route 84).  Climb up the small inside corner to the large ledge.  Continue up to the top of the climb is desired.

Mental Block ascends the slightly overhanging wall to the left of Microwave Dinner.  Start climbing the left side of the wall, moving right towards the center as you climb.

The Seventh Buttress #5-1/2 is located between routes 95 and 96 on the Seventh Buttress, the lowest point of the Major Mass of the Doorway Rocks.  The route is the inside corner to the right of route 96.  Climb up using generous holds and ledges.  This is a nice start to the excellent route up Jungle Gym Tower.

Kenosis is locate behind the tall skinny tree in the inside corner between Dippy Diagonal (rt# 62) and Sure Shot (rt# 64).  To climb, follow the inside corner and the blocky crack on the southeast face up to the pine tree growing from the rock.  Either stop here or continue past the left side of the pine tree and finish on the less defined inside corner.

The Red Slab is located on the southwest face of the Red Slab Buttress between Earnings Summary (#72) and Chockstone Chimney (#76).  Climb up the slab on easy holds past a small overhang.  Once near the top either continue up the southwest face or move around the corner to the southeast face.

Inside corner with small overhang about 20 feet up. You can continue by traversing to the northeast over to an inside corner that leads up to slab at the top of Keyhole butress, also 5.4.

Innocence is located on the east face of the Red Slab Buttress between Congestion Chimney and Puffs Plus.  Climb up the face just right of the corner using nice face features.  After a few moves head right onto a less-steep slab of rock.

The crux is just below the ledge at 1/2 height.   Great climbing on sharp edges (very small to big) in the first half and great slab climb in the second half. FUN!

Puffs Plus is the obvious dihedral on the east face of the Red Slab Buttress, just to the left of Innocence.  Ascend the corner using ledges and the inside corner/crack.

Chockstone Chimney is located in the corner to the right of TM Overhang (route 77) and to the left of Red Slab (route 73).  Starting at the base of Red Slab, climb up the diagonal left-leaning ledge toward the corner to your left.  Once at the corner use good holds to ascend to the top.

Climb the face left of TM Overhang using the left corner. Fun moves and worth taking a lap on after doing TM.

Short, arcing lieback flake provides the missing link between Catwalk and Jungle Gym. This is route 97 (in the Seventh Buttress area) in the 3rd edition of the DL climbing guide by Swartling & Mayer.

Seventh Buttress #4 (route 94) follows the low-point corner of the buttress.  Climb up smaller balancey holds on this slab.

The Seventh Buttress is a relatively short formation containing a number of lines. 

  Seventh Buttress #2 (Route 92) ascends the broken features on the right side of a large 15 foot crack.

Loco Head can be found back in the northeast corner on the west side of Blue Slab Buttress, to the left of West Michigan (route 85).  Climb the chimney on easy holds.

TM Overhang is located on the face just to the west of Red Slab (#73). From the slab below the climb (belayer best stand below the slab), climb the crack below the roof by either jamming or using a layback. Once to the roof reach high for holds to get over the crux. Climb easier rock to the top, staying on the left face is a bit harder than going up the corner.  Given 5.9+ in the blue bible, settling out at 5.10a or b depending how you finish.  

Seventh Buttress #1 (route 91) climbs the outside corner on the left side of the wall that leads to Cat Walk (route 90).   

  The climbs on the Seventh Buttress can be used to start the 3-pitch route up to the top of Jungle Gym Tower.

A straighter version of "Catwalk."  In the initial dihedral of "Catwalk" continue straight up to the top of the block on the right (dirty).  Continue up the face to the left, ending just under and left of the final boulder perched on top. 

  Not as aesthetic as "Catwalk," but better protected, and links well with "Archeopteryx" to take you to the base of "Jungle Gym."

Archway Cookie is located on the soutwest face of the Archway Buttress.  Climb up slabs to the left of a sizeable overhang.  Climb up the face using good holds to the arching overhang.  Once at the overhang move right to get over the overhang and continue to the top of the buttress.

Dippy Diagonal is a nice hand jam crack located west of the Keyhole below the South Platform.  Climb up crack about 3 feet right of the inside corner (Kenosis, rt# 63).  The wall gets steeper toward the top of the crack.  Either stop at the large ledge or continue up to the top on Kenosis.

Congestion Chimney is located to the left (west) of the "Angels Traverse" buttress.  The chimney is very overgrown and not worth your time.  Could be used as a potential access route.

The Seventh Buttress is a relatively short formation containing a number of lines. 

  Seventh Buttress #3 (route 93) climbs the large crack and wall to the left of the crack.

Microwave Dinner is located on the southeast-facing wall to the left (northwest) of the Blue Slab Buttress.  Start the climb to the left of the prominent overhanging block.  Climb the left-facing inside corner to the top.

Cookie Cutter can be found on the southeast corner of the Archway Buttress between TM Overhang and Archway Cookie.  Start up on broken slabby rock to ledge.  From the ledge move left to the southwest face and finish the climb on Archway Cookie.

Mindless Dribble is located on the large rounded buttress between the Red Slab and the Keyhole on the lower band of the Major Mass.  Start by climbing up a steep 10-foot "chimney" onto a ledge.  Once above the chimney climb another 10-foot wall using the corner and crack to the left of the corner.  From here go slightly left towards a pine tree.  Climb up this face using small face holds and a few larger ledges.  Above this area you come to a slabby face with more small crimp holds.  Climb the slab to a good-sized ledge about 25 feet from the top.  Above this ledge there is a small overhung pocket.  Traverse right about 10 feet to an easier crack/dihedral.  Once above the dihedral you'll be on another ledge.  From here either go straight up under a good sized "horn" or move back to the left and follow a crack up around the left side of the horn.  The last move, regardless of your final approach, is a tricky mantel onto a block above the horn.

Shady and secluded, there are some real gems scattered along these walls.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Major Mass