A strange little obscurity in the Composure Gully, on the right side before you tunnel under the big boulder.  It takes an eagle eye to spot the one bolt...Might feel R to some.

Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster

Hair Shirt

Disciples Of The New Wave

On Edge

Palsy

Hair And Now

Hair Lip

Nice Offwidth.  Note the grade of 5.8+ os for the OW, and the climb could feel harder if you've never done this sort of climbing before.  IT's a nice one that has reasonable rests and won't shred the aspiring OW climber, but at least short-sleaves may be advised anyway, as opposed to bare-back or in a tank top.

On the right hands side of Showshed wall, as seen in this picture, there is a tall sunny buttress split in two by a nice OW crack. The climb starts up past a few mountain Mapples to reach a slot that gets cleaner and more solid with progress. Fist-jamming gives way to arm bars, knee locks, and heel-toe technique, until the steep moves up top that are beat with pockets deep inside the crack and a good left-hand sidepull out on the left face.

The top-anchor or TR can be set with any of the various elements of a standard rack.

One of the best lines I did at the crag. Fun and pleasant, mostly solid and gymnastic. I think I must have pulled 5 heel hooks around the corners.

This line is at the left side of the right-most feature of Snowshed Wall. This is in the shade in the attached photo, just left of the square face of that hold the obvious O.W. named 'Hairshirt.'

Climb up on solid rock on a crack (not too hard) to an engaging face- flag, stem, and hook your way up past multiple cruxes to reach the anchor. Very fun, and mostly good holds and good rests. Height may be a factor, as I found most of the critical holds just within my reach without much strain. Some one 5'6" or below will have to work harder.

Contrived route that largely uses the arete of the "Hair Shirt" offwidth. Despite it's proximity to Hair Shirt, On Edge climbs fairly well, and is steep, continuous, and thin. The crux is getting past the 4th bolt to the 5th and to the anchors.

Mike Carville's Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe guide mistakenly shows this route to be Palsy (5.9).  Palsy climbs the dihedral around the corner to the right and has a direct start (10a/b) that starts 5' or so right of this route and shares a few holds.

The direct start to Palsy ascends the off-fingers crack on the face. This section climbs really well and has decent, but fiddly gear, with the first piece being a bit off the deck. The crux also happens to be fairly low, and in combination with some funky gear, has been the scene of numerous groundfalls. It doesn't warrant an R rating, but it is heads up at the very least.

Once past the crux, mantle onto a sloping ledge, then head up the killer right-facing corner. You can easily avoid the 5.10 portion by walking around to the right onto the ledge that the dihedral starts from.

Pull a small roof, then head slightly left.  Continue up a thin face past three bolts, then head left again to an incipient crack, just right of the arête. Finish at the "Disciples Of The New Wave" anchors.

Climb up a small roof to the just under-vertical face. Trend right, then back left for two bolts, which are part of "Hair And Now". After the bolts, continue trending left towards the arete and a thin crack. Finish at the "Disciples Of The New Wave" anchors for the best version of this route.

This thing has just enough gear to keep it safe, with a bit of spice.  Go heavy on the small stuff.  The Horniak guide calls it .10c, which is a mega-sandbag.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Gully - Right Side