Apetizer starts up somewhat chossy rock to an arete. Once on the arete enjoy great moves between big holds to get established under a roof. Prepare for some long reaches to move past the roof and gain a good rest. Finish with delicate face climbing.

Apetizer

Monkey Brains

This Must Be The Pickle

The One That Got Away

The One Half

Hard Blues

The Invisible Man

The Other Half

The One

The Final Sound

Atmosphere

Eating the Gun

The Shining

The Whining

Gorillas in the Snow

Dwarf Toss

The Blue Mask

Redrum

Route starts up easy terrain into a shallow dihedral. Exit dihedral to the left, rest up then traverse right under the roof and then bust over the roof to the face above.

Shares the first five bolts with Apetizer, then moves right.  From here it gets hard and stays hard all the way to the chains.  There are a few really excellent pockets, but it's mostly tiny holds and delicate footwork.

This is the first of the true "cave" routes, and is one route to the right of "The Shining" (5.13c).  Start up on sharp pockets climbing a tad right of the bolts, then step left and establish yourself under the first big overhang.  Here the route starts to get hardish, with a very big reach off a not so good undercling...though there is more than one way to do this sequence.  This will get you to a big horizontal break, and ready for even steeper climbing above.  Surf up to a good right hand pocket, stuff your feet in the break, and get psyched to get pumped.  The final headwall on great stone and cool pockets is a gas.  There is a tickler finish.  I called this route modified because of the obvious glued on "football" that you don't even need to use to get through the crux.  WTF?

This route is great for American Fork.

If you didn't get enough at the chains of The One, keep going up the attractive face above.

From the anchors of The One, easy moves for a few bolts in the obtuse corner over the roof eventually guide you left onto the face where the difficulties increase.  Watch out for the large loose block as you start this traverse.  When the left trending holds dead end, head straight up on some smaller holds below the redpoint crux.  Another short leftward traverse leads to a funcky section with a bunch of left facing holds and awkard feet on the left edge of the wall.  Then move back right to some small edges and poor feet.  With the anchors just feet away, fight your feet up, and stab for some edges.

This can also be done as an extension to Eating the Gun.

Someone added an anchor at the fourth bolt of

The One

. Makes for a nice, pocket-y warmup.

Climb the first four bolts of

The One

and then lower off.

Scramble onto the boulder in the back of the cave and clip bolt 1. Traverse through a few moderate (5.12) clips before bouldering up into the horizontal roof. Catch a breather, clip a bolt and climb the horizontal crux boulder problem into the 'pod' where you join 'Atmosphere' 'Blue Mask' etc. Rest in the pod and climb onto the headwall. Break left and execute the low-percentage 'Blue Mask' lunge before traversing left to finish.

Start the same as Atmosphere, climbing to the pod, then out to the lip, then onto the headwall. Where Atmosphere, The Blue Mask and The Invisible Man split on the headwall, climb up one bolt then start a leftward traverse clipping two bolts. Your feet will be on some of the hand holds for The Blue Mask.

If you've done The One Half a zillion times and want to get a bit more in, then there is actually a "route" that can be TR'd just to the left of it.    (There are a two bolts at the start, but fairly far to the left of the line.)   It basically starts where you get lowered from The One Half, but stays right of the dihedral.   It's a bit more sustained and crimpier than The One Half, but the crux is much easier, so I'm giving it the same grade.  Doing both back-to-back with no rest, other than lowering, makes for a better warmup for the much harder routes around it, IMO, without taking up much more time.

Juggy 5.10+ pocket climbing to good crimps on a rail, lead to the roof crux where you'd better get your core on.

Shares the first two or three bolts of Apetizer (depending on if you clip the first low bolt), then busts hard right through the overhanging staircase-like roof. The holds and movement on this route are amazing: bouldery, tenuous, burly, yet simultaneously subtle and techy. There are a few great rests separating the numerous cruxes. It's exposed, and the stone is bomber. One of the many great 5.13's in American Fork that often goes overlooked.

Note: there's a variation that branches off at the 7th bolt that is a letter grade harder.

Start on the arete in the cave, right of center. Grab 2 jugs above your head and execute big moves on good holds for 4 bolts up to a pair of pocket jugs under a shelf. This is the split between the Shining (go right) and Atmosphere (go left). Do some up-side-down shenanigans to gain the large pod and a rest. Climb from the pod out to the lip and move left for two bolts. Establish on the headwall and another rest. This is the split between The Blue Mask (go left), The Invisible Man (go up, then left) and Atmosphere (go up, then right). Go up and right past large moves on good holds and mantle into the dihedral above. Climb an easy layback crack to anchors.

Climb the nice pocketed face which gradually increases in difficulty. Work your way up the overhanging dihedral to reach a sinker pocket. Bust out left and up pulling a bulge to gain an stance in the upper dihedral. A nice climb with a little awkward movement trying to pull the final bulge.

Start on the arete 15 feet left of This Must be the Pickle. Big moves past 4 bolts lead to a shelf where Atmosphere and The Shining split. Break right clipping one (or two) more bolts before a difficult boulder problem to get a jug pocket on the headwall. Pull onto the headwall and trend slightly right to finish with the last bolt and tricky mantle of This Must be the Pickle.

A decent route that follows a left-facing layback crack.  A pretty sustained route with a crimpy crux at the very end.  Besides a few short sections of poor rock, the route is pretty solid.

Follow wandering pockets up a vertical face to the base of the obvious crack.  Layback moves, some jams, and the occasional pocket help you make progress.  Beware that the rock deteriorates for a short section about half way up.  Key holds are pretty solid but anything else is suspect.

Eventually, you will reach the large undercling just below the headwall. Make use of a few small crimps and pull your way past the redpoint crux to glory.

Finish on the anchors for This Must Be the Pickle.

Be sure to warn people not to stand below you when climbing on this route.  Also, cleaning this route is a bit of a hassle.  Just have you belayer anchor to a tree so you can stay clipped to rope to avoid taking huge swing.

Will definitely improve with some traffic.

Easy climbing up gross rock to bolt two. Then the climbing starts, and so does the good rock. Do a few fun moves to crux, pull crux to fun slab climbing to the anchors.

Climb Atmosphere through the pod, out to the lip, and onto the headwall. Once on the headwall break left to an undercling and L-Shaped edge. Wind up and fire the infamous crux lunge. Traverse straight left through amazing sequences on stellar pockets. Catch a breather and execute a difficult mantle before clipping the chains.

Start with some punchy moves on pockets and side-pulls on the vertical, blue streaked wall. Catch a rest before a few steep moves out the pocketed roof. Then, enter the looming pod above using some funky stemming, and infamous hand/fist jams. Powerfully exit the pod out right at its apex, and finish on The Blue Mask.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Apetizer Wall