Also known as Beginner Corner, climb up the sloping ledges following a thin crack past the small, blocky right-facing comer to easier ground above. Not always the cleanest or most graceful route to play on. You may find it to be a bit wet after a good rain too. 

  This is a good climb for the new trad climber, with one issue, a fall on the first half could cause you to hit/land on the ledges. 

  Watched a two person team swap leads the whole way up this recently. they turned this from a simple single pitch to a whopping 4 pitches (they were working on building belay stations and swapping out leads). Thought this was a good idea and this is the climb to try it on.

The Crux

Fever Dream

Exhibition

Chardonnay

Beginner Flake

Biceptennial

Climb the bulging face and obvious left-facing flake to the top. The variety of starting points gives a little jazz to this route.There are actually several variations you can pull out of the main route. The hardest being a 5.9 and goes straight up the face to the right of the flake.

Climb up the overhang to the thin face below the roof. There are a couple of tiny underclings in the roof. Pull the roof just right of Exhibition and continue up on holds bordering on imaginary. Relax when you get to the large ledge above.

From the green slab, climb up to and through a crescent shaped flake to reach the roof. At the small, left-facing corner pull through the roof and continue up on small, tiny holds. This route used to be 5.9 or so before the flake above the roof was broken off (well, according to some of the original pioneers, anyway!)

This route is often the rappel spot for those who come here just to rappel (nice long drop for it-just make sure your rope(s) touch ground!) 

  Pitch 1: 58 ft. Follow the crack through the chimney 'notch' (crux) to a ledge. Step right a move or two, then follow up and left on easier ground to a ledge with a sizeable tree (beware the Greenbriar!) You know you're close when you reach the grassy ledges. Pitch 1 is often wet because it is a natural drain for water in the rock. 

  Pitch 2: 52 ft. Climb straight up the face (not recommended) (or climb VI or V2) above to the top of the BIG MOMMA BOULDER. 

  V1: Chardonnay Variation Finish (5.9) Head right and a little up to a small roof (the "cave"). Pull to the right around this and follow the offwidth crack above to the top. 

  V2: Chardonnay Escape (5.5) Traverse straight right to a cave. Continue past this opening around the comer and then up to the top. 

  This route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so the Greenbriar bushes have been growing thick on some of the ledges.  If you try this climb, PLEASE be careful and take care.

Climb up through the overhang at a right-facing notch to the sloping ledge. Keep going up the steep face, trending slightly right, to the roof. Crank through the roof at the left-facing corner system to some larger holds, then to the top. Fun route. A dyno may be warranted for some.

This area is a good place to stop if the other areas are over run with climbers. "The Crux" (5.5) can offer the new leader a good bit of fun (though it can be awkward in places), with good pro placements. 

  Anchors are generally off the boulders behind the King & Queen's Seat block. I have also seen people use gear in the top flake as well.   Some of the climbs here can be wet after a good rain.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Biceps Wall