This is a short, clean, fun lieback on excellent rock.

Kublai Corner

Original Route (aka Jake Off)

Toby

Glen's Crack

Hollywood Rattlesnake

Randy

Broken Dreams

Irish Toothache

Yasmine Bleeth

Cross-Roads Finish

Showers With Dad

Gandy

A Bull with Gas

Leon Redbone

Love Gas

Ben Scabbyface

Dos Chi Chis

Jack

Old Hornington

Child Proof

George's Route (aka Binder)

The Bazooka

This attractive crack climb lies on the north facing Kamchatka Block on the far right side of the Siberian Corridor.  The Kamchatka Block is actually the north face of the summit block of Buttress 4 of East Siberia [Dos Chi Chis lies on the south face of Buttress 2]. In the photo, it is the "back-side" of the shaded triangular block to the right of the "pointer" [the 2nd to the right summit block].

Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.

This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.

Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.

Follow the wide crack to an awkward roof encounter.  After turning the roof you can either continue slogging up this crack or bail to climbers left and head to the anchor bolts of Old Hornington.  If you bail left, be sure to protect the follower with some high pro as they will be mid crux when pulling your last piece before the traverse.  The fall would be ghastly

This fun face climb lies on the right side of Buttress 4. Buttress 4 is the clean looking face to the right of the area in shadow (to the right of the face with the "pointer"-which is buttress 2)

Climb up past 6 or 7 bolts (crux) to a large ledge. Continue up past 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 100 foot rap.

As mentioned elsewhere, Broken Dreams (on the Kamchatka Block) is easily reached from the top of this route.

Either start from the bottom of the seam, or make a couple of delicate face moves (5.8?) to gain the right-trending seam. after 25 feet or so, step right into the next seam over.  Angle eases after 30 or 40 feet.  Continue up the seam to the chossy headwall with brown patina plates to a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.

This was listed as "unknown" in Randy's JT West. Climb up past 8 bolts and end at the anchor of Love Gas/A Bull with Gas.  The route goes straight up past some bolts, follows a crack system for awhile, then angles up and left on a slab to the anchor. This is an excellent climb and definately worth a visit. This route is the bolted climb right of Showers w/Dad.  It is NOT the bolted face right of Love Gas.

This climbs the left side of Buttress I. Climb the left crack/seam with a fixed copperhead in it, to face with two bolts, to a two bolt anchor.

Either rappel or continue up an easy pitch to the summit. From the summit rappel "Love Gas".

Fun and short, on the upper left end of the face.  Best if done WITHOUT an Irish toothache

Begin on the left side of the middle buttress, left of

Dos Chi Chis

, on a small ledge. Make some exposed moves up to the 1st bolt (easier and less exposed to the right) and then work your way upwards in a left-trending fashion to a cruxy section past the 5th bolt. The moves past the 5th bolt are a little thinner and somewhat loose as well, but they soon give way to solid rock and stellar moves over a small roof. Above the roof a short section of enjoyable face climbing leads to a 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Dos Chi Chis).

Rap off from the anchor (

90'

) or continue up Dos Chi Chis past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge system. Rap off from here (

2 single rope raps w/ a 60 meter rope

) or continue past 5 more bolts (5.10a) to the top of the formation.

Descend from the top of the formation in 3 single rope raps

(see the Dos Chi Chis page for more detailed information).

This is a well-protected climb with engaging moves on quality rock. There's some loose rock on the route, but that should clean up in time and make this even more enjoyable. Three stars out of five (four if you go to the summit).

This route begins off the lower left side of the ledge found on George's Route [route 476], after that route's 6th bolt.  Probably it is best to climb all of George's Route and then make a short (35 foot) rap back down to the ledge.

Head up and left onto the ridge of the very narrow buttress of rock and follow it past 6 bolts (1 of which is entirely unnecessary) and 1 fixed pin. You end at a large ledge in a saddle below and right of the summit of Buttress 2. This route is clearly seen as the narrow rib of dark rock to the right of the upper part face with the "pointer."

As stated elsewhere, You can easily scramble down and right through the "saddle" to reach the Kamchatka Block and the north facing crack route Broken Breams (11b).

Rap off slings down and right (60 feet) to the rap anchor atop George's Route. Rap (100 feet!) to the ground from here.

Eight bolts and one fixed piton lead to the anchor on Love Gas.  SWD is located just right of Love Gas.

Gandy is the small obvious spire in front of and just below

Dos Chichis

. This climbs the left arete on the formation past six bolts and a 1" piece between the first and second bolt. A fun and worthwhile route to do if in the area.

Start to the right of "Randy", in a low angle ramp-like section, then climb steeper plates (some loose), past a fixed pin and seven bolts.

This angles up and right to the first belay of "Love Gas". Rappel (60 meter meter rope, 70 meter is better) or continue up "Love Gas" and Rappel.

This route is left of East Siberia Buttress 1.  It is the left most route of all the bolted sport routes in this area. It starts on an easy slab with a bolt and a piton, and then goes up a bolted face to an anchor with two bolts and a FP.

This is to the right of "A Bull With Gas". Climb the low angle ramp mentioned in the "Bull with Gas" description to the right and up steep plates (5.9), passing a bolt, several fixed pins and seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Face Climbing (5.10a), passes two bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Another short, easy pitch can be done to the summit.

Two bolt rappel anchors on top. A 60 meter rope is mandatory and a 70 meter is better.

This route is down and to the right of the small tower Gandy.  Bolts and fixed pins protect this route.  The crux is down low on a slab past a bolt or two. There is an anchor on top to make a short rap ( or downclimb) and soon you will be near the start of the climb Toby, on the left side of the main Sibera area of Outer Mongolia. This climb is one of the easiest climbs in the area, has well-enough protection, has some length to it, and is worth a visit, but is often overlooked because it takes a few extra minutes to get to the base, and it's away from the main staging area by a few minutes as well.

Ben Scabbyface goes up the Buttress just right of Weo.  The rock is not all that good, and neither is the protection. Up near the top, there is a FP and a bolt. Not really a recommended climb, but a climb non-the-less. This climb never made it into Randy's Joshua Tree West Guide;...probably a good thing...

P1)

Climb steep slab (5.9) with intermittent patina past 8 bolts to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge.

P2)

Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation.

Descend the route in 3 rappels with a single 60 meter rope

- one rap from the summit to the large ledge, another to the intermediate belay below the large ledge and one more to the base.

The well-protected climbing in a remote location makes this a highly recommended moderate route. While the climbing is good, the view from the top is unparalled and offers far-reaching views of the entire Wonderland, Saddle Rocks and the 29 Palms Marine Corps Base. Three, maybe four, stars out of five.

Start up the left-facing corner, moving to the right at the top of the corner after a fun lie-back move near the small black water-streak.  Above the corner and to the right follow a crack/seam to the white headwall with brown patina plates and a ledge with a two-bolt rap station.

Good rock and plenty of features make this climb worthy.  No way it is 5.10b unless you actually try to stay way right and not use any obvious holds on the face just left of the crack.  I would say it is in the 5.8 range above small gear.

Moderate moves take you up a very shallow crux finger crack.  A variety of tricky moves are needed to get past this section and up to a horizontal crack.  Hand jamming above leads to a small overhang and the top.

This route climbs the dark patina-covered, buttress (Buttress 3) just right of the buttress/face containing Dos Chi Chis and Yasmine Bleeth (Buttress 2, which has pointer above it).

Climb up past 6 bolts to a ledge [the Cross-Roads Finish, route 477, begins off this ledge]. 2 more bolts protect face to another ledge/block and a 2 bolt anchor/rap (100 feet!).

The logical finish to this route is to make a short (35 foot) rap down to the ledge system below, then climb left onto a very narrow and overbolted buttress [Cross-Roads Finish; route 477]. From the top of Cross Roads Finish, you can rap from slings to the rap anchor atop George's Route and make a second rap [100'] to the ground.

After walking the plank a bit up and right you are able to stand under the bolt just above the roof.  Here you can put in a real small cam in a slot just under the lip of the roof.  This might save your life if you pop trying to get a real small wired in just above the roof.  Now you need to do the move, or at least some of it, before clipping the bolt above the roof.  Some sort of standup move will lead to easier climbing and additional protection hopefully as needed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Siberia