Fun, bouldery start that leads to balancey mantle. Work your way up along the beautiful and exposed arete. Side pull and smear like a hero. At the end you'll come to a committing and (crux) mantle. Trust your feet and clip those sweet bolted anchors.

Blue Moon Arete

Tan Man Corner

Bush Doctor

East TMT

Homeboy

Climbs the obvious major corner system in the center of the Tan Man Tower on excellent stone, with classic stemming and laybacking. This is one of the best 5.10's I have done in the area!

Begins at the base of the corner and shares the first 4 bolts with "Bush Doctor". When "Bush Doctor"  heads right out of the corner continue straight up to a stance below a section of splitter fingers in the corner.  Layback this section (Crux) to the corners end, then make an obvious traverse left (pumpy) along a flat shelf to anchors at a stance on the left side of the top of the wall.

Currently there are no rap rings at this anchor but someone conveniently left carabiners to lower from.  Alternately you could bring your second up and rap off the hangers if the biners happen to be missing.

The classic on the formation. In the center of the large corner on Tan Man Tower is the start to this excellent route that ascends the corner, out onto the right wall and up to the top of the tower.  This route is height dependent and shorter climbers may find it more difficult at the crux. I'm 5'8" with a +1 and I feel the route may be 11d/12a.

Start in the center of the large corner, follows a few bolts to the first crux, a traverse right that gets you established on the right arete of the wall that forms the right side of the corner. From here solve the slab, enter a small corner feature and exit this to the base of the summit block formation. This is the start of the crux. 3 bolts on the summit block to the top out.

The summit block from a distance has the appearance of the face of a man, thus the crags name.

Crux of the route is right after the 6th bolt. A fun and technical crux move made less fun by the quality of the rock.

The quality of rock on the east side of Tan Man is markedly poorer than of that on the west side, so be aware while climbing and treat every hand/foot as suspect.

Route starts right of Bush Doctor & climbs the thin holds up the arete to a headwall.  Good but hollow holds on headwall get you up to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tan Man Tower