FA: 2008

Start below a pseudo chimney and then work your way into a thin crack feature/ left-facing dihedral protected by small stoppers (brassies on FA) and TCU's (bomber small piece in the purple mastercam range after exiting the dihedral and before the bulge).

Finish on some powerful moves up and over a bulge, get to some good gear and ring anchors below the obvious ledge.

Quality Control

Lightning corner

Joe Dirt

Stem Cell Research

Brownian Motion

Walrus

Sons of Thunder

We Saluda You

Bat Hook Crazy

Otra Vez

Disarmament

Moby Dick

Boaz

Sailing the Seas of Squeeze

Thumb sucker

Tragedy of The Commons

Maid Of The Mist

Hanging Root

Some hard moves to get started but fun climbing afterwards

obvious corner climb. Great for beginners very easy maybe more of a 5.5 or 5.4 climb with one crux move towards the top

Climb starts off with some easier and dirty moves past the first two bolts and leads up to a big ledge to rest before the crux. I feel the crux is at the third bolt, but towards the top placing gear can be pretty tricky.

A moderate clip up in a scenic area with a fun dihedral/ arete finish. See photo on the front of the Bradley Falls page

A dirty start leads to 5.9 jugs to a stopper roof. At the roof, plug tcu's under the roof crack and pull around left to a tough clip at the final bolt(crux). There were two oddly placed, close together bolts just right of this line. We guessed they were from an unfinished project or remnants of someone's bolting practice.

A a nice little sport climb that features a mini-roof mantel to a dirty ledge, crux. You may have to brush off the mantling holds before making the move. Bolted anchor with quick links for the rap.

The bottom of the route is great, the rest is pretty dirty. I would give it at least another star if it was every cleaned. Great for a warm up.

Left of quality control and bat Hook crazy, this route starts with some balancy moves with small nuts but great gear once at the first horizontal. Move up and right from here hugging just left of the arete then pull around the arete to then follow a ramp to the base of the mini roof. This ramp is very easy climbing (5.4 with solid rock) but does not have gear to protect it, thus the reason for the R rating. Once at the mini roof two fists size cams can be placed side-by-side. Pull the roof and stand up for two more pieces of gear. Slab directly up until the jug rail at the top out. Traverse left on the jug rail to a suitable stance to top out. As of 7/26/17 there is only a tree anchor so bring some cordelette to belay up your second or set up a  TR.

Great steep arete with the falls pounding behind. Tough finish.  Fun stuff if it were cleaned up a bit.

A sharp arete ride leads to a 7 foot roof, then a dirty top to anchors. Would be much better if cleaned up

Reach Boaz by walking to the furthest edge of the top cliff life. You can set up a top rope from here. Fun simple climb to the top. Crux is half way up.

Fun! Start on the easy start of Hanging Root, then move right towards the detached block. An orange TCU can cut the run out. Follow four bolts past great jugs, once at the roof, plug a #5, sling it long, and make an exciting traverse right, pulling over the roof to anchors.

Beginning in a gully. Climb the gully to a slight overhang them to a crack and a bolt. After the bolt move out right onto the Arata to a sloper finish. rap down useing trees

This is an interesting traversing line that is good for the area and actually requires some "trad" skill.

Start on small ledge below the left end of the wall with a bolt 15' up. Climb through a techy crux section to jugs. Continue up, passing gear and a pin to steeper terrain that leads to a chimney/dihedral. Get a subtle #1 camelot (shallow horizontal) up and right before stepping out to bolt. Move out and around the flakes, then up and through the last bulge with a bolt to an anchor. Lower off anchor.

Scramble up to the tree and start above the triangular chockstone. This chock stone is questionable so look out for the swimmers below and dont use it. Traverse left towards the arete and then up for some jugs. Traverse back right to the third bolt. Climb up and left from here and get good gear in a big horizontal. bust up and right with more gear before reaching the anchors.

40 feet of easy but mossy climbing followed by 60 feet of technical and pumpy vertical movement. Start at a mossy wall 10 right of Stem Cell on gargoyle holds, run it out on easy terrain until you are parallel with a detached pillar. Plug a cam, then a nut in a small crack, then the climbing follows bolts at great and sustained 5.10.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bradley Falls