About as Traditional as it gets.  About 100' left of S-Wall, from an alcove climb up a crack up to the big face and top out.

Snakes Head

S-Wall Variation Exit

Today is a Good Day to Die

Pizza Face

Geek Feet

Baptism

Desire

Big Bite

Snakes Head Dihedral

L.S.A.T

Moose Head

Practice Crack

Rowins Roof

Sabb

The Leaning Dihedral

Moosebite

S-Wall

Climb past a big hole and up to clip a bolt just below the overhang, to join the upper crack on Moosehead.

A bouldery and vertical variation finish to the classic S-Wall route or Snakes Head Dihedral route. From the vertical crack (anchor) at the top of pitch 2, head left to a V slot in the Snakes Head formation. Solid #2 cam protects the vertical start on good holds as the climbing gets easier once you move up the short 15 foot slot that will take you higher up the the Snakes Head anchor. Rap from Snakes Head or do the jump and head over to the headwall anchors for retreat.

Climb Moose Head and and before turning the lip follow the crack right to a bolt that protects the face move.

Start ground level, and climb the heavily pocketed face up to one of the heads.  A committing move comes about 20 feet off the deck above some cactus.  Good holds and easy moves above.

Climbs the face left/west of Bourbon Street. Takes a direct line to the "amoeba" feature, then angles up over to P2 of Bourbon Street.

Runout and bold climbing, this is a baptism for climbing at Quartz.  Crux is turning the bulge in the 2nd pitch.

Climb first pitch of Baptism.  Turn bulge at the anchor (crux) and climb the runout face above.

Climb the first pitch of S-Wall.  The climb the face left of over about 20 feet and clip the last bolt.  Then climb the unprotected face on 5.10 to the top.  Falls have been taken from the top.  I have seen this climbed from the ground up, clipping the only bolt at (90'), skipping S-Walls first pitch, but a fall would be deadly.

The roof is the crux, moving on smooth rock out and into a layback.

Climb on big knobs on the face right of the Snakes Head dihedral of S-Wall.  Move up on buckets to a 5.11 face move and into a 5.10 crack to follow out up and onto the face.

This crack is commonly bouldered but also goes well on gear. The slab is a bit polished down low, but there are great jams to be had. The topout is the crux, there is an easy escape left if you’re feeling spooked. 

A route with a fabled history. Chris Rowins aided the crux of the route with a bat hook rating it 5.10 A2, later adding a bolt to replace the hook. 

  Duane Raleigh later freesolo'ed the route upgrading its rating to 5.12 and chopping the aid bolt.

According to the old Southern Exposure guidebook, this route is a linkup of the easiest section of the wall. Climb S-Wall to its first bolt, then traverse up/right to the Baptism crack and follow it until you can traverse right to the Bourbon Street belay at the base of the Headwall’s nose. Finish on P2 of Bourbon Street.

Climbs the large right facing dihedral and chimney system.  Finish at the ledge, or out on the LSAT/Moose anchor.  A good alternate upper if you did Pizza Face.

Starts same as Moosehead, but stays on the lower face and climb up the overlap higher.  Finishes up on Moose's crack.

This is one of the best face climbs around.  Climbs up the middle of the wall right and below the Snakes Head.  Climbing up 60 feet of 5.6 to the first bolt, then up to the mid anchor right in the middle of the signature Ess formation.  Then step out and above the Ess (crux) and up, clip another bolt and work the run out 5.8 moves to the top.  You can also link both pitches into one long one.

The formation on the point that lookis like a snakes head.  S-Wall has the unique S rock deposit in the middle of the face.  It can be easy to see from the parking lot.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 03. Snakes Head / S Wall