Scramble up some flakes and blocks to a point about 10 ft to the left of the start of route 1. The route starts here, work your way up a water chute thats about 30 ft in length, then make a long step to East Gruesome. Follow an obvious crack system to the summit from there.  

  East Gruesome has been called by Bob Kamps "The finest summit that the Conn's achieved. They pioneered an intricate and difficult route up the three hundred foot east face." In Bob's guidebook he chose not to describe the route, as to leave it a surprise for those who choose to climb it. I ask that you all would do the same as well.

East Gruesome (Laptad Route)

Ghouls Gone Wild

East Gruesome

Screaming in the Silence

Tying the Knot

The Conns' finest acheivement! Done, of course, with only tight sneakers, 80' rope, pins, and down climbing the route. This has always been a mind blowing accomplishment. Now, all you need to know is...is that you should climb this route! But bear in mind that this is the Conns' hardest route, and their proposed 5.8 is not a modern 5.8. Please be confident in your ability and route finding skills. Leaving no description of the line is part of a traditional tribute to Herb and Jan. So please, no beta spraying here.

Another lengthy pitch on the E Grue. Start up moderate terrain choosing the path of least resistance. Aim for the obvious crack/flare that ends around 3/4 height. Release your inner wild ascending a thin and airy face, seeking relief in the next crack system and onward.

A long and worrying pitch up the N face of e gruesome. The goats might be the only souls to hear your screams back in this unfrequented gully. Start in a left facing roof system connecting sinuous seams and eventually fading to an extensive technically demanding face. Mentally taxing with just enough bolts to keep you on route and a key .5 placement up high. This line was intended to stay on the right side of the arete connecting seams throughout its entire 55m.

Proud line put up by Tony just before getting hitched and moving to Arizona. Nearly 60m long with only two bolts and lots of thin protectable face. In order to maintain the mystery and adventure of East Gruesome I must be vague. Begin off a large boulder with your first protection piece in a hueco. Join the original route for the last 30'. This is an intense lead, be ready.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in East Gruesome