This is a great line a couple corners to climber's right (East) of

Lieback

. All I know about it other than what I know from climbing it has been gleaned from the thread for the photo that depicts the route in the Interiors Wall area section, which I will submit as a photo for this route.

You have to stand on a pile of weird, muddy stuff to start it. Begin with a thin hands/fingers section that is probably best laybacked, which felt 5.10+.

Continue into hands then fists, and turn an overhang/bulge with fists. Continue as the crack widens into #4/#5 size, and turn another overhang in an awkward offwidth section that felt harder, probably the crux of the route at 5.11 something or at least 5.10+.

Finish up the widening offwidth for 10 or 15 feet, and end by traversing left on junk/sandy edges to the bolted anchors. This section was scary and sketchy, a very cool finish to a very cool route. Watch out for loose rock on the sandy ledge above the anchor, and prepare for an extremely uncomfortable belay.

A last comment: I think one could probably take the squeeze chimney above this route to the top of the cliff, but you would need bigger gear.

Descent: this can be rapped with a single 60m rope from the anchors, make sure to tie knots! You will almost reach the ends and will have to swing a bit to climber's left to stand.

Everything in Between Variation

Not Like Any Other Desert Splitter (Left Dihedral?)

Right of Lieback

Unknown III

Pinball Chimney

Bigger Than She Looks

Unknown I

A Piece of Work

Make The Grade

Key Hole

Unknown II

Briar's Birth

Supermank of the Desert

Pony Express aka Bunny Ramp

Fondon't

The Shaft

Interiors

Lieback

PR Training

Eye for an Eye

Texas Finger Crack

This great route provides a tad bit of nearly every offwidth size. It is a great full body workout. The start is smartly protected by a bolt, then a quick mantel to a pedestal launches you into the meat. Stack, wing, and chimney your way to the top. A few crumbly face holds appear here and there. The crux is exiting the first thirty feet of splitter in to the lightly arching bulge.

This ascends a 35 meter, left-leaning dihedral. It starts up the choss and then goes into the overhanging blocks.

Lots of thin gear is required to tackle this one. The crack is mostly fingers and smaller, and it's totally worth the few feet of loose at the bottom. Stemming, finger locks, tips, chimney, the works. This is a good adventure.

The route is relatively short, but fun:

-Short fingers section at start can be stemmed.

-Thin hands all the way to the top.

The crack immediately right of

Unknown II

is an independent line until the last 15' or so.  The climbing is very different - thin hands at the crux that gradually get bigger until the routes merge.

This is the big chimney you walk through to get to the Cave routes. Go up until you can chimney over to the anchors at the top of the

Cave Route

.

This is a great, varied route that offers some powerful movement as the crack steepens. Be careful of the choss which makes up the first 30' of the route. Climb a section of offwidth, making a transition to the steep roof section that is primarily made up of #4s. Plug and gun your way through to a rest. Finish with a sandy topout.

The route to the left of

Unknown II

.  This is the start of "

Make the Grade

", but it has a very different character and its own anchor at the top.

After climbing 20' or so of easy wide crack up a ramp, step up to the plate to the steep, left-arching crack. The crack opens and closes as it goes through many pods. Reaching through these pods often results in good hand jams. Make an awkward last move to clip the chains dangling in space!

This is a short, splitter, hand crack.  Make a few finger moves between pods at the bottom with a short traverse left before climbing straight up thin hands to hands (crux) to a two bolt anchor with chains.

Climb the slot with hands to thin hands and finally huge fists before topping out on the pillar at a two cold shut anchor.  Climb overhanging choss for a move into slot.  Climb the slot with good hand jams in back to a good rest/stance.  Continue up thin hands with good feet on the face widening to offwidth to the top of the pillar.

Climb through a finger crack over some edges. Mount up on the large, detached pillar and start up the corner at the top of the pillar. Once high enough to reach to the right, plug a couple cams into the large flake. Transition through stemming and a layback with a small crimp on the face of the flake. If the crack was not packed with petrified mud, you could jam it, but keep up the layback until you get a hand jam. From here, it is big #3 (3.5 is ideal) through some steep terrain to the chains.

Sporty and suprisingly solid Chinle guards the start. Channel your inner bird, and nest some C3s to get you to the goods. It is tips to fingers for 50ish feet. Then journey though varied hands with multiple good rests. This is a really great route.

This is one of the few easy desert cracks.  Most of the climbing is on the face to the right.

Per S. Green: ...1st is the 5.6 open book. 2nd is 5.9+ and traverses up right, squeezes through a hole, and finishes atop the cliff.

I don't have a guidebook and don't know the FA information or route name.  I'll be happy to fill these in if provided.

The flake on the outside of the cave area, just right from the easy route.

I don't have FA information or route name but will be happy to add them.

Climb up the first 10 feet to the bird shit ledge. Then start the finger and thin hands crack. Watch out for a loose flake. Then the crack opens to perfect hands for a while then hits a lower angle part with a lot more bird shit everywhere.

This is the route at the far end of the cave, immediately behind the flake.  There are a lot of good rests and this is quite mild for the area.

This is the crack immediately right of the cave entrance.

Start up any of the routes next to

Make the Grade

, and head up the right crack to the anchors. It begins off about 6 inches from the main ledge and then narrows down to 1 inch and then back to 5 inch as you head to the anchor. The rock is good the gear is good, and the climb is fun!

This is full value, desert crack fun.  Climb a short overhang to OW to grovelling squeeze to reasonable chimney.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Interiors Wall Area