A more adventurous and spicy way to top out on Skyline! The fantastic final pitch makes this climb worth it; a 40' super airy, steep, fingers to thin hand crack. Glorious! No fixed anchors on route.

Pitch 1: (5.8, 80')

Climb up moderate terrain to a notch just behind the left side of Stigmata Tower.

Pitch 2: (5.10b, 130')

This pitch ascends an open book up the north side of this small prow. 1 bolt right off the belay. Belay at the base of the reddish colored tower.

P1-2a: (5.10a)

Climb "Don't Think Twice", traverse left to base of P3.

Pitch 3: (5.9, 100')

Step left around the North facing side of the red tower and climb OK cracks. Once on top, angle slightly right and belay near the base of the massive chimney.

Pitch 3a: (5.8 R or PG13)

Climb the river-facing side of the red tower. Gear is sparse, but there. Climbing is straightforward. PG13 if you have a Yellow BD 0.2 or Purple Metolius #0 cam.

Pitch 4: (5.10c/d, 140')

The money pitch!

Clamber up a few feet in the chimney, being sure to take note of the MASSIVE block that appears to be resting on next to nothing. Start stemming, and eventually get yourself onto the south-facing side of the chimney. Climb a few more feet up to a good ledge on the arete. You can build an optional belay here to manage rope drag if you want, but I didn't find it too bad just running it to the top.

Start working your way left out onto the steep and airy north face of the prow, and get ready for the fun. Finish up the obvious & steep finger/thin hand crack to the top. Don't try to find any left feet. There aren't any. Save some fingers/thin hand sized cams (BD 0.5 - 1) for the final crack section. I belayed way back against the toe of the next step, as there aren't really any belay placements directly on top.

Descent:

Walk off to the east, uphill, and join the main climber's descent trail down the south side. Very obvious from heavy traffic.

Never on Sunday

Stigmata

Better Access

Baby Back Rib

Rusty Nail

Der Fruh Lowe

Behind Blue Eyes

Ithaca Connection

Don't Think Twice

Skyline Arete

Opus 7

Sky King

Boda de Minnesota

Great climb on clean rock.  Slightly pumpy and makes for a great warm up for the other harder routes on this wall.   Great steep climbing on solid flakes through the crux.

Climb easy ground to the base of the red tower. Launch into a series of low grade boulder problems separated by reasonable rests with great gear. One of the only routes at its grade in the Canyon which goes ALL on gear. Fantastic climbing on a fantastic feature!

Climb short splitter finger crack that spilt a block leaning on the main wall to a stance.  Continue up on thin gear to eventually join the ramp on "Bad Access" and continue to the chains on RN.

Crux about 1/3 of the way up the route through the bolts. Climb to top of the stigmata pillar.

Mixed line in the summer of 09.  Crux is up high clipping the last bolt.

AKA:

The Lowe Project

. This fine route was originally an aid route which then had bolts added to it (by Alex Lowe) making it one of longest standing free climbing projects in the canyon. This route was attempted by many 'hard' locals including Bill Dockins, Conrad Anker, Alex Lowe, and Bean Bowers, just to mention a few. Congrats Adam!!!

Begin on top of a tri-skewer like rock and climb immediately into some difficulties. The route backs off slightly until one reaches the final lieback section which is the technical crux of the route. (5.13-) A final mantle delivers one to the 2 bolt rappel anchor. One 70 meter just gets you down.

Also known as "No Intentions". Another overlooked 5.8 high in the canyon. Climb the short flake crack right off the ground, and continue basically straight up through intermittent cracks to the large ledge above. This route will get much better after it sees some traffic. Ends on top of Skyline P1.

Descent:

Rappel off the rings to the South. 60m rope gets you down.

A fun harder variation to start Skyline Arete, or can be done as just a 2 pitch route. It starts on the north side of the buttress, just to the left of the start of skyline:

p1 - starts on a flake leading up to a handcrack, follow the handcrack until you are above a small tree, then step right to another handcrack and top out on the same ledge as skyline.

p2 - ascends the slabby bolted face just left of the rap anchors, some gear can be placed on this pitch.

Over all, a great climb with pitch 1 being the money pitch. Can't believe this hadn't been added yet, a fair value 5.9 in the gallatin. Go send it!

This is a fantastic, mellow 5.10 that gets shade for most of the day. Some vegetation on the route, but it doesn't get in the way.  Head up some intermittent cracks with lots of face holds past a couple of small trees over a distinct tan colored bulge (crux), following more intermittent cracks and good face moves, trending just ever so slightly left. Pass a flake system near the top to easy ground to the finish. Ends on a huge ledge, same as top of Ithaca Connection, Skyline chimney, and Crystal Caper.

Descent:

Rappel from chains off south side with TWO ROPES, finish Skyline, or make an easy, but somewhat loose traverse over to the base of P3 of Never on Sunday 5.10c/d (red tower), and finish this route (great linkup, see Never on Sunday route for beta photo).

Skyline Arete is the longest route in the canyon. Sitting high above the river, the route offers fun climbing at a modest grade with sweeping views from comfortable belays. All in all, it's an enjoyable day on good rock.

There are many  ways to break up the climb due to plentiful ledges, but basically parties follow the ridge crest, finding an interesting mix of climbing problems including chimneys, slim crests, face, and  cracks, with many variations that offer harder climbing. One might choose to run out the rope if the party is experienced, and, alternatively, short pitches can be done to maintain communication and ease rope handling.

A single rope is adequate for completing the route.

Begin climbing on the north side of the initial buttress by ascending a chimney. Continue to a ledge where a rap station allows descent to the south, to the base of another chimney. Climb this enjoyable and somewhat odd feature, involving a narrow squeeze through a hole at the top, or for bigger people or those carrying a pack, climbing out and right. .

Continue up steps and reach a section of short towers which can be passed on the north. Beyond this section is a small notch, and from this point  finish left into a strange chimney/corridor, as one alternative.

Scramble  across some narrow rock and descend to the north where a faint trail leads to the notch behind the formation, or finish with a short step to the summit. Make an 80' rap to a big ledge. Join the trail back to the bottom.

Many interesting variations can be done so be creative and enjoy a fine outing.

Climb the wide crack, using face features to the left. Keep angling up and left past the right angling seam through the easy looking terrain, past a great 15' crack section, to the top. Ends on top of Skyline P1.

Descent:

Rappel from rings to the south. 60m rope makes it.

A hard start leads to some cool movement up a thin crack. After about 30', move into the crack 5' to the left (crux), then move slightly right and to the top, following the crack. Although the gear looks thin, it is a safe lead on gear.

Descent:

Rappel from rings.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Skyline North