This is a ridge traverse from Campbell Peak northwest to Hayden Peak, crossing the summits of ten 13'ers. They are, in order of ascent East to West: Campbell Peak, T.Zero, S3, S5, S6, Mears Peak, S7, S8, S9, and S10.

Hayden Peak is a 12'er, and there are a couple of other mountains that must be climbed but are not recognized as such - the mountain just west of S6, for example. If completed from Section B of the whole 'Telluride Traverse' from Imogene Pass, Campbell Peak would not be included.

Starting from the summit of Campbell Peak (13,213'), follow the ridge north to "T.O." (13,735'). This is the highest point in the traverse. Third Class.

The next peak north is "S3" (13,410'), Third Class.

The crux of the traverse comes along the next three peaks: tightrope-scrambling Fourth and low Fifth Class with wild exposure and high consequences on all different manners of loose rock. "S5" (13,380') is the next peak north and is located in the 'corner' where the ridge turns west, low Fifth Class.

Getting to "S6" (13,441') to the west is more problematic and exposed. The ridge further west of S6 is particularly difficult, with a section of low Fifth Class downclimbing necessary to maintain the ridgeline. Many loose spires and gendarmes to navigate through the "corner" in the ridge, low Fifth Class.

Continue along the ridge towards Mears Peak. Just shy of the summit are the last of the technical difficulties for the day, 4th or low Fifth Class.

From Mears Peak, it is an easy walk to "S7" (13,224'). Ruffner Mountain (13,003') is the inaccessable knob a good ways to the south. Or is it? Which peak is Ruffner? The closer highpoint south is not hard to stand upon at all, and should be included. The further prominent knob is very hard to stand upon... Third Class.

More second and third class terrain brings your across the summits of "S8" (13,252'), "S9" (13,134) and "S10" (13,020').

Maintain the ridgline proper through the whole traverse, without deviating down any couloirs.

A small rise is crossed before summiting Hayden Peak (12,987'), which is the final peak of the traverse, Third Class.

Continue along the ridge line to North Pole Peak (12,208'), but unless you humped a rope and a rack with you, the summit of North Pole Peak is too superior a challenge. It is mighty beautiful, however, and tempts the climber's eye.  What be the route up and down these two awe some spires?!

Campbell to Hayden 10x13

Imogene to Emma 8x13

Emma/Gilpin/Sneffels Ski Tour

Emma to T.Zero

Start at Imogene Pass and traverse the skyline to Mount Emma. Start with Chicago Peak (13,385'), and cross to Peak 13,343, Third Class.

Just north of Peak 13,343 is a ridgeline much like Saint Sophia that requires bypass on its north side on steep, loose Fourth Class terrain above Rock Lake.  There is a real old mining spike in an unlikely saddle on the ridge, which is Badass to've placed. The ridgeline up to Peak 13,242 is also problematic and requires some meandering and steep loose climbing.  Low fifth class.

The ridgeline widens considerably and it is a quick and very pleasant stroll over Peaks 13,369; 13,463 and 13,337 to Mendoza Peak (13,275'), Second Class.

Saint Sophia Ridge is untraversed in its entirety. This is obviously the crux of Section A. Climb around, over, and through the many spires along the ridge on exposed choss. Struggle to a point halfway along and the low spot in the ridge; there is a steep, skinny chimney on the right that can be downclimbed east to a scree shelf. Many of these exits exist along the way to the east.  The whole of St Sophia Ridge can be bypassed via a scree shelf on the Governor Basin side. Traverse the scree shelf north and climb Mount Emma (13,581') via scree gullies. There is a large flat-topped buttress along the ridge to Emma from the southeast that can be walked around rather than climbed over, Fifth Class.

Eight thirteeners total. Continue on with Section B to Gilpin Peak or descend the West ridge of Emma to the Sneffels Highline Trail (fourth class). It is also possible to descend the Southwest ridge of Emma and climb Greenback Mountain (12,997'), and descend to town from there, Fourth Class.

Blocktop Mtn (beyond Gilpin) seems to be the crux and ceases progression towards Dallas. A natural and fun addition to these peaks is continuing over Gilpin (bypass major cliffband on left side) and climbing Sneffels along the ridge from Gilpin, which is very high quality. This should be the standard finish, on Sneffels.

Telluride to Ouray.  This is an Emma, Gilpin, and Sneffels ski traverse, south to north, with roughly 8,000' of ascent.

Start up the south face of Mt. Emma (13,581') from Telluride (8,750'). Ascend steep snow to the ridgeline just south of the summit, and then do a wee bit of scrambling the final hundred feet to the summit. Ski the steep, sheer north face of Mt. Emma through various cliffbands to a shelf (~12,250) below the south face of Gilpin Peak. Sharp edges!

A slender hallway of steep snow splits the otherwise sheer and craggy southwest face of Gilpin. Crampon straight up to the summit of Gilpin Peak (13,694').

From the top of Gilpin Peak, walk or ski (depending on the last prominent wind direction) down the ridgeline northwest to the saddle which connects Gilpin to Sneffels. Ski north down steep snow to the base of the south face of Mt. Sneffels (~12,750').  An outstanding improvement would be dropping off the summit proper down the north couloir of Gilpin.

Climb steep snow up the normal hiking route to the summit of Mt. Sneffels (14,150') with a bit of scrambling at the top. Choose your poison off of the top of Mt. Sneffels - either skiing north which generally requires a rope or steep downclimbing for 100' (the downclimb isn't that challenging, but the exposure is), or skiing the south face.

There is a steep, skiable line that forms right from the summit of Sneffels down the middle of the south face (the Birthday Chutes). Cautiously skiing the hiking couloir is possible if the snow is in shape. The Snake Couloir or the Triple Threat (much added commitment--'Triple-est Threat' after 2 other mtns) are great ways to finish the day. You can ski the Snake and climb back to the south side of Sneffels and an easier way out of the woods via a huge couloir on the northeast side of the peak. Ski and hitch down Yankee Boy Road to Maggie's and Hutch's.  Serano burger, onion rings, darkest beer.

Section B is the unfinished middle part of the Telluride Traverse and covers the skyline north of Telluride from Mount Emma west to 'TO' Peak.

Start on Mount Emma (13,581'), and traverse north to Gilpin Peak (13,694') over Fourth and low Fifth Class terrain around several towers on the ridge. The large cliffbands can be passed to the west with some exposed and unprotectable fourth class.

The traverse to 'Block Top' (13,543') to the west is very challenging. This is as far as Section B has been taken. There are rapell anchors on ths first tower encountered. Block Top gets serious, as does Dallas (13,809'). These are the cruxes of the whole traverse. There is a huge notch in the ridge between Dallas and West Dallas (13,741') that will present another crux. From Gilpin west to this notch is very, very challenging and presents the unknown ground. From the notch to 'TO' (13,735') is third class. 'TO' is the mountain north of Campbell Peak and the second highest peak in the traverse behind Dallas.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Northern San Juan Traverses