This climb accomplishes it's purpose; that is to get to the top of this formation.

Wind Burn

Kippy Korner

Sexy Sadye

Lieback and Lingerie

Jesus Lives

Desert Shield

Satanic Mechanic

Integrity

This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there.

Moderate crack climbing leads up to a small 5.9 roof.  Above the roof, insecure and runout face climbing takes you to the top.  It's a sustained and good quality route.

This route starts just up and left of Sexy Sadye and follows a lieback/undercling flake past a couple bolts before joining Sexy Sadye at its final bolt. It's possible to place gear at maybe one or two spots on the flake, but it wouldn't actually make the climb better protected. Get ready to crank some tough moves while standing above the second bolt. The bolts are bomber and the fall from the crux is clean, making this seem a bit less serious than many other "R" routes in the park; however, if you're not up for the lead this one can be easily toproped after climbing Sexy Sadye.

Sun morning to noon.

This route is not that bad (ie. it's fairly fun) and could get better if climbed more.  It has two distinct cruxes, one on the initial traverse left and the other at the end, which is quite crimpy.  Both hard sections are separated by fairly easy climbing and good shakes.  The first clip after leaving Satanic Mechanic is sort of tricky.

This is a powerful, endurance route, with some pretty hard moves. With the exception of a knee bar near the beginning of the route, there are no rests to speak of. The technical crux is near the bottom (this has gotten harder since part of a rail broke a few years back); though just linking all the moves together to the final jug is the real test.

This route is on less than stellar rock and has been falling apart since before Scott even red-pointed it. Glue has been used to reinforce several holds (e.g.: the large flakes on the upper section) and the key right-hand hold on the technical crux broke off (while still a project) and was re-glued on by Scott (I believe).

If the idea of using reinforced or re-glued holds is repugnent to you (it is now illegal in the Park, but was legal at the time this route was done), just do not do this route. Do not get high and mighty and harm this climb; it has seen at least a hundred ascents and is a well settled classic.

Edited by Adam Stackhouse, with the narrative provided to me by Scott Cosgrove 8/6/2013

"Back in 1991, I stumbled onto the Turtle Rock corridor repeating my friends climb

Satanic Mechanic

and couldn't believe my eyes. Visions of sport route heaven and massive lines everywhere. The most obvious was Desert Shield. But just some bouldering at the base proved that the rock was far from solid, and I embarked on a cleaning mission that would last for four days.

Finally, the bolts were in place, the flake and loose rock climbable, and after a few days work I was ready to send. But as fate would have it, I got the flu and Jim Karn, the best American sport climber was passing through town. I knew Jim would hike the thing on accident if he saw it and I would be robbed of my first ascent. To my girlfriend's horror, I went to the bathroom threw up and then we drove to the Park and send my project first go. Threw up at the base and had her drive me home.

The route became the flavor of the month and we all enjoyed having a new line of hard climbing so close to camp. It was and still is one of the most pumping climbs, as no one move is much harder than the next but it never gets easy. I named the climb after the first Gulf War, just because I like the name and it looks like a Shield."

This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of

Desert Shield

. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).

Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Rock - South Face