Inside the big split of the Split Boulder, start low and climb directly up the steep overhanging face just right of the tree, making powerful and dynamic moves and mantle the top while avoiding the slab in back of you. Great climbing, if only the slab wasn't behind, which might take a star off if you are claustrophobic.

The Lost Problem

Donkey Punch Direct

Lemon-Lime

Polly's Nose

Eric Rudolph's Hideout/ Unused Traverse

Road Slab

Donkey Punch Traverse

Erich Rudolph's Unused Topout

Bob's Mantel

The Middle Earth Traverse

An Act of Providence

Sit Down Circuit

The Crunchy Shrimp

Take a Seat

An Act of Coincidence

Sit Down Traverse

Dave's Crank

Sit Down Problem

Bob's Ground Beef

Early Traverse

Inside High Traverse

Paul's Waltz

Starting from either side, traverse the middle of the overhanging face inside the split without using the top

Easy warm up that's been done for ages. Sit start at a good flake, and straight up to a solid crack, prominent quartz, etc. 

 Don't know if it goes by any other name. 

Awesome climb.  Sit start with right hand in a perfect finger slot and left hand on the opposite arete. With some scrunched feet, pull off the ground to reach the line of jugs, following up a left-trending crack on big holds to the arete. Top out.    For more value, one can climb an extra 6-8 ft along the arete into the split crack, topping out at the highest point. If you climb into the crack, be aware you are finishing with no pad. Huge jugs though and great feet the whole way

Climb to the top making making some slab moves before going over the bulge.  Finish up on easy slab above

Powerful starting move with a balancy crux and a VB top out. Sit start at the arete by matching hands on a roundish jug at about 2 feet off the ground. Pop up to the next sharp jug right above the starting hold on the arete at about 4 feet tall. Traverse left using small crimps until you can reach big holds at the horizontal crack then climb up and top out. There are many small holds and rock features on this problem. Many different beta can be used. Choose one that works for you. The Tim Kemple book lists this problem as V5. Let's see what the consensus would be.

Climb up the easy slab on the roadside of split rock

Another early top out variation of Early Traverse. Climb the infamous "Donkey Punch" face from a low right sit-start, traversing left along the crack about 8 ft before climbing up to cool quartzite pinches. Top out above the quartz holds

Sit start on the big jug low to the ground, as for Dave's Crank/Eric Rudolph's Unused Traverse, move up to the chest height shelf and then trend up left through crimps to another good shelf above the big shelf and left of the arete. Bring feet up and then make another move straight up to another large shelf just below the lip. Continue straight up through sloped holds over the lip. Topout could still use some cleaning. 

Stand start and climb up the middle of the face.

Starts all the way on the right side of the Sit Down Traverse face of the boulder; to the right of the start of Take a Seat. Start sitting below the overhanging dihedral, with both hands on the sloping lip of the right side. Pull on with a right heel and make a few moves straight up on crimps, there are a number of options here, eventually getting to a large incut crimp rail. Match it up, bring you feet in closer and then move up to crimps in the flake directly above the start of the climb. Once standing with the crimps on the plate the climbing eases up as you finish up the easy slab. 

Its an eliminate but is sooo good, all holds before small triangle crimp/pinch are off except for slopey block pinch and under cling.

My friend, Ben saw the line and chalked off the moves. If you send it, please send me a video/grade and I will list you at the FA.The project beta was thought to be: Start up and right of the start holds for the Sit Down Traverse on razor sharp crimps and move up right then left on a series of small crimps ending a slopers to topout FA beta (easier but overall better than original): start on the crimps in the photo and get your feet on the wall. Walk feet up to the lip in a manner resembling a crunchy shrimp doing a bat-hang, and top. 

Start close to/ underneath the finishing holds of Sit Down Traverse with two small crimps and a jug foot wayyyyy under there. Make one hard move out the overhang to the lip. Top out as for Sit Down Traverse.

Starting to the right of An Act of Providence, it starts on the same sloping lip and moves straight up onto the slab using a sloping hold out right off the start and then using several small pockets and good undercling holds that form at the bottom of the large flake. Once perched on the slab, use good holds to walk up the slab to finish. 

Awesome, must do, classic traverse with a heart breaking final move.  It is the complete opposite of Try Again so for the full diversity of V5, do them both in a day to work endurance and power. 

  Start with the Sit Down Problem to the lip, then begin the rightward traverse on slopers and slopey crimps using heel hooks and some feet under the roof.  when you reach a decent horizontal, make the strenuous top out.  The move isn't too tough, but the feet are awkward and you're probably pumped enough.   

  Oh yea, expect some scraped forearms, some of the slopers are tucked back a foot or two.

Inside the big split of Split Rock, start low and ascend the left side of the steep face on good holds with a throw or two and mantle the top while avoiding the slab in back of you.

Not sure if I have the correct name on this one but a good steep problem on big slopey holds. 

  Start low under a roof on decent holds.  Make your way up with good body tension or long moves to the lip and find a way to top out.  The first few moves make up the start of the classic sit down traverse.

Sit-start variation to Bob's Mantel. Start on the crimp rail near the ground, pull up to the obvious crimp pocket, and continue straight up the face to the slabby top-out.

Traverse the obvious crack right to left. There are various ways to finish; top out on the right side of the split, traverse into the split and up one of the routes, or drop down and cross over the split and continue traversing the crack.

Mark's comment noting this climb, "The lip traverse using heel hooks, he just calls Inside High Traverse, FA Neil Pothier 5.9+."Can be done starting Dave's Crank or Lemon Lime, gaining the lip of the boulder, and then traversing either right or left to the other end of the boulder. There is the tree growing out of the middle of Split Rock, so mid way through the traverse you do have to navigate your body around the tree and do your best to avoid the dab. Once on the lip of the boulder, the climbing did feel ~5.9 and was quite enjoyable.  

Not sure if this an established problem, but pretty much just go up the face right in front of the boulder on the ground. A little contrived. There was a hold out left I neglected to use.  Start on the lowest crimp rail with a good left hand. Move up on crimps (and a sloper) to the sit down traverse horizontal. Continue straight up for a sketchy (ish) topout on the slab. Super fun.

The most prominent of the Druid Circle boulders, just off the road on your left as you approach up the spur rd. It is split in two by a large cleft (climbing inside) and the front face has an obvious traverse crack running up and left. The back side is home to the popular overhanging Sit Down Traverse.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Split Rock